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Making a Hardwood Net

Started by harelug, May 17, 2007, 12:32:38 AM

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harelug

The following was started as a potential Magazine article several years ago, it was to be accompanied by a series of step by step photos. I only got as far as the steaming and bending stage, it's a project I really should resurrect.
Haresears recent post started a bit of interest so I'm posting what I have so far.

MAKING A HARDWOOD NET

I like to travel light when fishing and have never liked the encumbrance of a bag or landing net, until that is a couple of years ago when I made my first hardwood net. These nets can be clipped to the D ring at the back of a waistcoat or jacket where they are out of the way but can be released with a quick tug.
Construction is fairly simple (If I can make one, anyone can.). They are very light and can be made in a variety of sizes to suit the quarry. My largest has a hoop 25in. x 22in. and is ideal for the West Coast Spate River I fish where it has comfortably landed salmon to 11 lbs.
The wood for my first nets was bought at B&Q/Homebase type outlets. I used two strips of Ramin wood from the Beadings and Mouldings rack in the store, 2.4m x 3/4in. x 3/16in. Ramin is a straight grained hardwood, which is easily steamed and bent to the required shape. You will also need a web clamp, two or three G clamps, a hacksaw blade, a drill bit various grades of sandpaper and varnish.
The first task is to make a form around which the strips of Ramin can be bent. I drew out the required shape, handle included on a piece of  1/2in. chipboard, 3/4in chipboard might be better but I find this much harder to cut accurately. Concentrate on getting one side right, and then make a tracing of this to give a symmetrical net. Now carefully cut out the form with a jigsaw, cut off the handle portion, which will be used as a template for the handle insert. Screw the form to a larger backing board. You will need a couple of spacers to lift and keep the form centred on the 3/4in strips. Next choose a piece of  3/4in. thick wood for the handle insert, use the handle template to draw the required shape and cut out with a jigsaw. Leave the end a couple of inches long so that it can be screwed to the backing board, ensure an even transition from handle to form.
The strips of wood forming the rim of the net now have to be steamed. To build a steamer you will need two lengths of 40mm plastic waste pipe, a coupling to join them together and two end caps. The tubes are joined and supported so that one end is about 12in. lower than the other to allow for drainage. The steam is supplied from a kettle (not electric). Depending on the type of kettle a short length of tubing can be used to link the kettle spout to the upper end cap or a hole can be cut in the sidewall of the tubing so that it can be placed directly onto the spout. The lower end cap has a small hole drilled near the lower edge for drainage. Place the strips of wood in the steamer from the lower end, fit the end cap and let the kettle boil for 30 - 40 minutes.
Now you need to work fast, an extra pair of hands is useful. Remove the strips from the steamer and starting opposite the handle, bend around the form, place the web clamp round the strips and tighten. You will probably need two or three G clamps in the handle area. The web clamp is ideal for the convex curves, the concave curves can be a bit trickier, needing the G-clamps. Leave the form and strips in a warm dry place for 24 hours before unclamping. The strips will spring back a little but the shape will still be obvious.
The strips must now be glued together. I use Evostick waterproof wood glue. Smear the glue onto the outside of the inner strip and also onto the edges of the handle insert. Now return to form and clamp as before. A layer of cling film over the form and backing board helps prevent the strips sticking to the form. Leave for 24 hours to ensure complete curing of the glue before removing clamps. Now cut off the excess wood from the handle.
The next step is to cut a groove for the mesh retaining cord. With the net lying on a flat surface I use a hacksaw blade fixed to a length of wood that centres it on the width of the hoop. After cutting the groove you need to determine the position of the holes, one for each loop on the outside of the mesh. Work out where the two holes closest to the handle should be and drill these out with a sharp drill bit 2-2.5mm. diameter. Run a string out through one hole, round the rim of the net and in the other hole. Tighten the string and mark where it enters the holes with a marker pen. Remove the string and attach to a level surface. Measure the length between the marks and divide by the number of loops in the net minus one to give the distance between each remaining hole to be drilled. Mark the intervals with a pen then run the string round the net rim again and mark off the hole positions with a pencil. This is much easier than trying to measure around the curve of the net. Drill out the remaining holes. Next screw and Araldite a screw eye into the end of the handle for attaching a safety cord. (If using the the magnetic type net clips it?s best to use a brass eye, available from yacht chandlers).
Now is time to practise your sanding skills. Shape and sand, shape and sand. Soon your net will start to look like a net. Start with a coarse grit paper and work down to a fine grit. When satisfied with the result you can varnish your net. I use several coats of thinned yacht varnish, sanding with a fine grit paper between coats. Pipe cleaners are useful for working the varnish into the holes in the frame.
Finally attach the mesh by pulling the mesh loops through the holes in the frame and passing a thin cord through each loop to hold them in place.
There are several types of clip available for attaching the net to a D ring on your jacket but I favour the magnetic type clip.

UPDATE

I?ve also managed to modify an old Pressure Cooker to provide the steam but these days you really can?t beat a steam wallpaper stripper for this job.

Photos: The net with the fish is Heresear's "salmon net" a NZ term?
The smaller of mine was the first effort, turned out a bit on the narrow side. It looked ok on paper as did the finished frame but when I attached the net it "shrank".
There is no greater
  fan of fly fishing

  Than the worm

superscot

Harelug very nice indeed ?any idea just how much time and effort put into the project ?nothing better than hand crafted tools of the trade ?

Will there be a an advertisement soon on the forum ?saying handmade ?  :) :)

haresear

Well described John. I see you even got the photies in OK :D

Guys, you'll notice that Harelug has attached his net release to the apex of the hoop, rather than to the end of the handle, which is more usual.
By putting it on the hoop, the mesh stays further from the ground and brambles etc. than the other method.
Also as the handle is hanging around the bottom of your back, it is easier to get at, rather than having to reach over your shoulder.

Alex
Protect the edge.

harelug

QuoteBy putting it on the hoop, the mesh stays further from the ground and brambles etc. than the other method.

Not far enough at the weekend, took me about 5 mins and a pair of sissors to release it from the brambles, that mystery river banks a real bastard.

Quoteany idea just how much time and effort put into the project

Don't think it took more than 15-30 mins a night over a week. Preparing the form probably took longest, maybe an hour.
There is no greater
  fan of fly fishing

  Than the worm

Wildfisher

nice one Lug...............looks like a good winter project. I believe Rabbitangler makes nets too, would be nice to get a  fish wild article out of the woodworking craft skills of you guys


alancrob

harelug

Great article. We have recently bought a 'bagpress' vacum forming kit for the dept - another techy - which is still in the box! http://www.bagpress.com/ Ever used one and if so do you think it would be easier than steaming? Last thing I used steam for was 6mm Ash to build a toboggan as a project at Moray House about  :shock: years ago. Needed to keep each strip in steam for about 4 hours I seem to remember.

Alan

harelug

Breac

I'm no expert on woods, I used Ramin because it was readily available in the correct dimensions. I've not experienced any problems with durability. I build up a good coat of varnish and the net hangs at my back out of harms way.
I have considered bamboo nets, wasn't sure how to shape them, bamboo doesn't respond well after short term steaming however having researched cane rod making I should have realised it does respond to more intense heating. In rod making you're mainly straightening bamboo strips, would the same heating render the entire culm so flexible.
I'd assumed the "bamboo" nets I'd seen, popular in Denmark were made with the same stuff as Bamboo furniture which appears more reed like than bamboo.

Alan

I've never seen bagpress before, having had a brief look at it I can't see how it's going to help bend approx. 2.4 meter straps around a net form. Perhaps if my understanding is right, once you have them the approx shape it could compress them on to the form. This I've found is the trickiest part of net making. Sounds like you might just have a solution.

John
There is no greater
  fan of fly fishing

  Than the worm

Clan Ford

John,

Like Col, I'm just going to have to give it a go.  Bit more study of your text required before I start though!  Thanks for posting.

Norm

harelug

My first interest in net making came from an article in International Flyfisher, a glossy mag of the late 70's early 80's.
Didn't get round to building my own until being inspired by posts on the American based Flyfish@ site, their archives can be accessed here:
http://ffarchives.jdunns.com
Try searching the late 90's
There is no greater
  fan of fly fishing

  Than the worm

hibsman

Thanks for sharing your experiences harelug - I've been thinking about this for a while and this  might just kickstart me ... where do you source the "net" and how is this attached to frame you make?

Chris




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