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Tangled leaders - bushy flies

Started by Ptinid, November 29, 2006, 10:20:02 PM

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Ptinid

Last season (oh, how long ago  :?), I struggles to cast large upwing flies. My leader would spin really badly, and would end up tangling within 2-4 casts. Straightening it had little impact on the problem, and I found I was having to re-tie a new leader quite frequently. VERY frustrating when the fish are rising to large flies!

Is there a casting solution to this? Any suggestions?

Thanks

It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.  ~John Steinbeck

haresear

I've had the same problem. Some patterns do this more than others. Usually the effective ones :)
Increasing the diameter of your tippet would help, or even just using a fluoro tippet. Being so much stiffer, fluoro is less susceptible to twist.

Alex
Protect the edge.

haresear

[quoteDepends on the brand...... not all flurocarbon is as stiff as it's monofilmant predecessor, for example Masterline fluro is a soft as sh*t.
][/quote]

One of the magazines checked out some "fluorocarbon" lines a couple of years ago and discovered that some brands are not fully composed of fluoro...but are just nylon coated with it. If I remember correctly, nylon will continue to burn when the end is lit, but fluoro will go out.

Don't know about Masterline as I use Airflo's G3 Sight Free mostly and Fulling Mill World Class when diameter is less critical. The Fulling Mill is the most reliable I have come across.

Sheilfisher, I use a tapered leader always and I think the stiffness at the tip of the leader length is what is critical to avoid tangles. I will usually have about 9 feet of factory tapered leader down to about 6-7lb at the tip, with whatever circumstances dictate as a tippet. That could be another single length of say 4 feet of 5lb for a big fly, or I may add to this latter a further three feet of 3lb if fishing small dries.

I always carry a selection of different types of tippet material with me so that I can fine tune things. For example the Stimulator is a bad fly for twisting. So with the Stimulator, I will use a tippet consisting of maybe 5lb Maxima to which I might add a couple of feet of 4lb fluoro G3 if things are tough.

Alex
Protect the edge.

rabbitangler

Basically any bushy fly is lacking in aerodynamics & will spin, so use stiff enough material to counteract this. Either stiff mono or thick mono. Must admit that I have this problem with Wyatts DHS on light mono so I use heavier with this fly, particularly on a 3 fly cast.
If I remember back to my college days if you double the dia you increase the stiffness by four, or somthing like that! :? Anyhoo maybees Tom Saville used loads of bushy flies so thats why he preferred Tynex................. or maybees no'.

haresear

Another way round this, is to just trim the wings so that they are within the circumference of the hackle.

Alex
Protect the edge.

Ptinid

Sorry for delay in re-posting on this subject.

I'm using mono generally, and yes, it's usually with big, bushy flies. Hadn't given enough thought to stiffness of the leader though - that should help a fair bit.  I was kinda hoping there was some way of dealing with this through casting.

I find it a real pain, especially when my fishing time is limited, to have to change leaders every 6 casts or so!!

Thanks for your suggestions and comments.
It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.  ~John Steinbeck

Ptinid

Rod - 8'6 5 wt. Use a floating DT line. Single flies (dry), Usually co-polymer leader or nylon - as thin as I can get away with since WoL fish as spooky as can be.

Often (usually?) have to side cast to avoid carnivorous trees and bushes, but even with overhead casts, I find spinning flies a problem.

The flies I tend to have problems with are certainly the big bushy ones - bug black gnats, march browns, upwinged flies of all kinds, and spent spinners.

I think, having read the replies above and also thought about it a bit that the issue may be leader stiffness. If I go for bigger flies- I'll need a heavier leader.

This is so obvious I'm embarrassed  :oops:  but hey - still learning.
It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.  ~John Steinbeck

haresear

Quotethe issue may be leader stiffness. If I go for bigger flies- I'll need a heavier leader.

Ptinid,

Remember stiffness is the issue,not diameter, although there is obviously a direct relationship between the two. Fluoro is inherently stiffer than nylon, so it doesn't necessarily follow that you have to go heavier to get stiffer  :shock:

I see your spinner patterns are giving problems. I've had the same problem and have never really found a solution.

I rarely use feather winged general dries any more and find that CDC or Snowshoe Hare fur works effectively and is also less likely to twist the leader. Being soft stuff, the CDC bends to assume an aerodynamic profile during the cast. You could also try tying your flies with a single wing backswept rather than two cocked at right angles. How often do you see an olive sitting with wings open anyway? 

Alex
Protect the edge.

Wildfisher

Quote from: haresear on December 13, 2006, 04:04:59 PM
Remember stiffness is the issue,not diameter

One wonders how many startled girlfriends have been told that. :D

haresear

QuoteA tapered leader is a MUST and this will def help turnover.  I use the Leeda type in either 4 or 5lb and from the butt loop measure it the full width of yer arms, add 6 inches and cut it.  Attatch a small seamless ring 2.5 or 3mm here and then tie in your cast material from here.

Copycat. You been watching me Allan? :lol:
I use the Riverge 1.5mm rings. The Lureflash ones are shite and will crinkle your leader or cut it, as they have a flatter profile than the Riverge ones.

Alex
Protect the edge.

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