The Wild Fishing Forum

Quote from: Wildfisher on Today at 02:22:13 PMStill have not decided whether to plant up the new tank or not. I'm way out of touch with species etc. Any tips for a variety of straightforward plants, best substrate etc?

Your tank has what is called 'low tech lighting' so with that in mind you want easier species. These are :-

Anubias barteri. There are a number of cultivated variants. All will be ok.
Jave fern (Microsorium pteropus).
Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana.

None of these species have roots and all will need to be tied to rock or wood. They an all tolerate low light and are very hardy with tolerance to a wide range of temperatures and water conditions.

Amazon swords (Echinodorus bleheri)
Cryptocoryne wendtii
Egeria densa (Elodea)


All three are also extra easy. The top two have roots and will need to be planted. You can do the same with the Egeria though technically it's a floating species. There's also Hygrophilia polysperma sold as cuttings. Strip the bottom leaves off the cuttings and plant in sand BEFORE filling with water. This will grow rapidly and you'll be able to take your own cuttings in no time.

The above are all a bit of a cliche but with good reason.

If you're wanting something a little more exotic but still very easy then consider any of the following.


You could also consider a lily bulb (You'll only need one) like Nymphaea rubra to add a splash of red colouration. The grow well and look great. There are also green variants.

Aponogeton natans. These are sold as small, crappy looking bulbs that grow like triffids and will flower with small white flowers at the water surface.

Any of the other large Aponogeton species with the exception of madagascerensis (Madagascan lace plant) as these are not easy.

Nymphoides Aquatica aka banana plant. Google it. It's a bit of a novelty but they're attractive and easy enough.

If you DM me your address when you're ready I'll post you some suitable species gratis.

Quote from: Wildfisher on Today at 02:57:24 PMThanks Sandy. Yeah I have been watching that guy's videos as well as his mate from Maidenhead Aquatics. They can be a tad irritating, but seem to know their stuff. 

I agree on both counts. Matt is only starting out doing YouTube full time and I think he is trying to find his style and ATM he is trying too hard

Fire away. Grab the master test kit now and plant up BEFORE filling with water and you'll save yourself guess work and hassle.

If you do have hard, alkaline water coming out of your tap you will have deal with that before adding soft water species.

Oh and I missed a really important 'accessory'! You will need to cycle the filter so that it contains the necessary bacteria to break down fish waste.

This stuff is brilliant and really does work instantly. Spending a few quid on it would be very wise to prevent 'ne tank syndrome'. It also avoids introducing unwanted pathogens when using filter media / water from an established tank etc. Rams are not the hardiest species so avoid a 'fish in cycle'.

https://charterhouse-aquatics.com/products/atm-colony-nitrifying-bacteria-freshwater-236ml-8oz

As I said in the other post have a look at this guy.

https://www.youtube.com/@MDFishTanks

While not disagreeing with Jon just a few observations over the years.

'Gravel isn't ideal for Corydoras as it can damage their barbels. I'd strongly recommend you use an inert sand. This will help plant growth.'

I have only found this to be the case with newly bought fish. The barbells eventually grow back and I haven't seen any wear on my tank bred ones. I am assuming that is because mine are on gravel and not a bare tank which I think breeders use.

'Plus the fact that a shoal of rummy nose'

Be careful when buying these. My first shoal were red and it extended towards the gills. They were peaceful and kept, more or less, to themselves. They died off, old age, until I only had one left so I bought another shoal of six. I didn't notice the difference until they were beside my original one. They are more an orange colour and only on the front of the head. They seldom leave the bottom of the tank and only take sinking food but they are very aggressive towards my Corys and are forever nipping their dorsal fins. The Corys with the other shoal were always out at the front of the tank, now they hide in the plants and only come forward when the food is put in. As soon as the Rummy Noses come near they shoot back into the plants, they are the same with my Plecs.

Thanks Sandy. Yeah I have been watching that guy's videos as well as his mate from Maidenhead Aquatics. They can be a tad irritating, but seem to know their stuff. 

If doing planting and hardscape I would try to create three distinct areas with rocks, plants and wood separating them and smaller rocks and less planting in those area so the Rams, if the Rams pair up, there are distinct breeding areas for each pair. I would also go for a shoal of Tetra that are surface to mid water swimmers or the tank will seem empty. I have been watching this guy for a while and what he does is quite interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/@MDFishTanks

Thanks Jon, great advice there. It's 7 days until the tank is installed so be prepared for more questions. 

Quote from: Wildfisher on Today at 09:55:44 AMThanks Jon. Which vac. would you recommend?

I don't think it matters too much. You just want something to remove as much fish waste and uneaten food as possible. If you don't remove it you increase the risk of bacterial infections and pH crashes. Plus it looks unsightly.

Reading your other thread and understanding that you want Corydoras catfish and rams I would :-

First buy the master test kit I mentioned and measure the pH and hardness of your tap water so you understand what you're working with. If you have very hard alkaline water you'll need to also buy something to lower both.

Then measure again after you have treated with dechlorinator to see if it's made any difference.

Gravel isn't ideal for Corydoras as it can damage their barbels. I'd strongly recommend you use an inert sand. This will help with plant growth also.

Rams are small but they are still Cichlids so think 'territoriality'. When you grow on a group of youngsters you'll see them develop their own territories and if cared for they'll pair off and spawn. The parents may hassle the other fish to the point of death through stress so be prepared to remove the non mating fish.

If it were me I'd use a large piece or pieces of bogwood in the tank to add structure. I'd also tie plant species such as Anubias barteri, Java fern and Java moss to it with a low breaking strain fishing line of cotton. Over time these plants will attack themselves to the wood and give you a natural look.

Also ensure there are some caves in their for cover and spawning sites for the Cichlids. You can use anything, but there are some pretty good fake plastic rock like looking caves. The Cory's will also appreciate these. In fact both species will like the hiding places.

You could also plant a few hardy specie of plants such as the hardier Cryptocoryne species, Amazon swords and Egeria etc.

Maybe a biy of Amazon frogit too. An attractive floating plant species.

Position the hardscape (rocks and wood) BEFORE you fill with water as this will make your life so much easier!

Also consider a shoal of 'dither fish'. In the wild dwarf Cichlids are predated on and so can be very shy. When they see a shoal of tetras etc swimming nearby they presume there are no predators about and so feel safer. In the aquarium this means they'll be out more so you can view them more easier and as they're more relaxed you increase the chance of them spawning.

Plus the fact that a shoal of rummy nose or neon tetras will add colour and movement to your tank too.

Hope that all helps. 

Oh and I'd also add plant fertiliser. Nothing high tech just something with a low NPK dose. Some people think that uneaten fish food and fish waste will do. And whilst it's true this will supply some nutrients, you'll simply get way, way, way better plant growth and healthier looking specimens too.

Also make sure you don't buy any terrestrial plants craftily sold in the aquatics industry such as Draceana or Fittonia. These species will die and rot once submerged. But the industry relies on people replacing these plants sales wise...

Still have not decided whether to plant up the new tank or not. I'm way out of touch with species etc. Any tips for a variety of straightforward plants, best substrate etc?