uv resin

[Traditionalist]

Are the thinners usefu for thinning fly tying varnish as well?

That depends on the "varnish".  You can use acetone for thinning a lot of things, and alcohol works for some as well. The mixture of acetone and alcohol is not quite as volatile as acetone alone and will also work for a lot of things. However, you have to know what type your varnish is. There are a lot of types now including water based and others. Using the wrong thinner will just ruin it.

I, and many others, don't bother with "Fly-tying" varnish as such.  Get yourself some nail varnish.  A very good one is Sally Hansen's "Hard as nails".  But the "el cheapo" brand from the local supermarket, chemist etc, will be more than adequate for most things. Just make sure it is nice and thin.  You can thin any "normal" nail varnish with acetone. ( No alcohol in this case). Don't use "Nail varnish cleaner", it wont work, as it invariably contains other substances for nail care. Also, don't get into the habit of leaving the top off your varnish bottles, (Choose bottles with a narrow neck as well!), as the solvent evaporates quite quickly and the varnish will thicken. Beyond a certain point the basic structure of the varnish can deteriorate, and thinning it wont make it usable again.

When thinning only use a few drops of thinner. This is usually more than adequate.

Even nail varnishes differ a lot. Some have various additives, the "Sally Hansens's Nylon" ;  http://www.sallyhansen.co.uk/products/hard-nails-nylon  is one such product, and there are many more. You want clear standard nail varnish for most things, and this is easily used and thinned. For "special" products, you may need "special" thinner as well, so these are best avoided.

Most nail varnish bottles come with a brush for applying the varnish. This will work better for most things if you cut the brush down to a much thinner profile. For many things I still prefer a needle for applying varnish. Just a tiny drop on the point of the needle.  Thin clear varnish will soak in quickly, cleanly, and smoothly.  The thicker the varnish the more problems are likely to arise.

The best varnish for most things like trout fly heads etc, has about the consistency of water.

TL
MC

[Traditionalist]

Bear in mind that this stuff is also called by other names.  "Lacquer", "Polish" etc.  It's nearly all much the same stuff, for the most part nitro-cellulose varnish, a sort of "liquid plastic" if you like.

Just find the cheapest thinnest for fly-dressing purposes.  Pound stores and places like that often have it cheap. Shake the bottle, and check the liquid meniscus, if it's nice and thin, you can buy it. If it looks "oily" or viscous don't bother. If it's not in a clear glass bottle, leave it.

http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=11059321#/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D11059321&field-keywords=nail+lacquer&rh=n%3A3760911%2Cn%3A%2111055981%2Cn%3A11058281%2Cn%3A11059311%2Cn%3A11059321%2Ck%3Anail+lacquer

http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&node=11059321#/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D11059321&field-keywords=nail+varnish&rh=n%3A3760911%2Cn%3A%2111055981%2Cn%3A11058281%2Cn%3A11059311%2Cn%3A11059321%2Ck%3Anail+varnish

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D11059321&field-keywords=nail+polish%23&rh=n%3A3760911%2Cn%3A%2111055981%2Cn%3A11058281%2Cn%3A11059311%2Cn%3A11059321%2Ck%3Anail+polish%23&ajr=0

This is very good and cheaper than most "Fly-tying" varnish as well, but you can get it a lot cheaper if you look around.

http://www.amazon.com/Sally-Hansen-Lacquer-Cleard-Takeoff/dp/B0051WGNOO/ref=sr_1_1?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1315561201&sr=1-1

The "Rimmel" clear lacquer is also excellent;

http://www.amazon.com/Rimmel-Lasting-Finish-Enamel-Crystal/dp/B004LXL34O/ref=sr_1_1?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1315561353&sr=1-1

Prices for this stuff vary very extensively. So have a look around before you decide.  Buy small bottles rather than large ones!  I have a few bottles of the Rimmel stuff which I got "3 for a Euro"  at a local "pound store".  Perfect.

Also, when using this stuff for "finishing" fly heads etc. Don't dress a fly and then varnish it. Wait until you have a dozen finished and then varnish them all at the same time. ( Stuck in foam or whatever).  This will make your varnish last a LOT longer, simply because you have the bottle open for a much shorter time, and less solvent evaporates.

TL
MC

[Traditionalist]

Also, as it may possibly be of interest, the most widely used "Fly-Tying" varnish for many years was "Cellire"  these are the recipes for making celluloid itself, and for the varnish.

CELLULOID (Fr. Celluloide ; Ger., Celluloid) Solubilities, insoluble in water, soluble in acetone, alcohol, and ether. It is obtained by casting on metal cylinders a viscous solution of pyroxyline (which see) in naphtha, amyl acetate, fusel oil, and camphor in varying proportions. This gives the thin sheets used in roll-film cameras, and the thicker strips used in kinemato graphy. Thick sheet celluloid is usually obtained by casting the celluloid in blocks and shaving off to the required thickness. Its principal use is for the support of films of all kinds and for making celluloid varnish or zaponlack.

A great objection to celluloid is its inflammability. A non-inflammable variety (see "Cellulose Acetate ") has been placed on the market.

A formula for a celluloid varnish is : Celluloid or pyroxyline 90 grs. 6 g.

Acetone . . . io drms. 35 ccs.

Amyl acetate . . zo ,, 70 ,, Benzole ,, ,, . 20 ,, 70 ,, Old and spoilt films with the gelatine cleaned off will provide the celluloid ; more or less is used to regulate the consistency of the varnish.


Cellulose acetate is more common nowadays;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellulose_acetate


The various terms, varnish, lacquer, etc etc all technically refer to different things here is some general info;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varnish

Modern "nail polish" is usually nitro-cellulose in various solvents.  Some general info on that;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_polish

TL
MC

[Traditionalist]

Finally, a couple of points which are seldom mentioned, but can be of major import!

DONT SMOKE or use ANY heat sources around this stuff, especially not naked flames.  Certain mixtures of fumes from volatile solvents, even a small amount, can constitute a so called FAB  ( Fuel Air Bomb ) which will blow you to hell, ( or wherever you happen to be destined), you will not "shuffle of this mortal coil", you will depart at great speed, possibly in a number of pieces! Even in one piece the concussion will probably suffice to speed you on your way, and if it doesn't the resulting massive low pressure and oxygen deficit will likely finish the job.

Only use the stuff in well ventilated areas. If you are drying a lot of flies etc, then open a window.  Continued exposure to some of these fumes will "rot" your brain in the same unpleasant manner observed in glue sniffing addicts.

TL
MC

[Inchlaggan]

Putting on my model-maker hat, there is a great range of glues, varnishes paints etc. each with their own thinners/ removers.
A little research and experimentation is required if you want to cut down costs.
As an example, paint manufacturers such as Tamiya and Humbrol direct you to their (expensive) own-brand thinners rather than just tell you what to use.
Making up a range of viscosities is a regular requirement. I use graduated disposable (they can be reused with care) pippettes from Camlab and a range of small glass bottles from the same source. Unfortunately the pippettes have to be bought by the 500, this is no problem to me as I'll get through that number in a year. For those of you that just need a couple for fly tying- PM me and I'll pop them in the post.
Back to Tamiya paints- the clear acrylics come in Smoke, Clear, Blue, Yellow,  2 Greens, Orange, Red and Green (Codes X19, X22-28)
and offer some great creative possibilities for heads and buzzer bodies.

[Rabmax]

Fill yer boots for a fraction of the cost of ones that are supposedly formulated for fly tying!

Top-coat ..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-UV-Topcoat-Acrylic-Nail-Art-Gel-Top-Coat-Polish-/290472433640?pt=UK_Health_Beauty_Nails_Manicure_Pedicure_CA&hash=item43a18197e8

Thinners ..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-x-UV-Nail-Art-Gel-Cleanser-Remover-Manicure-Acrylic-/280309065028?pt=UK_Health_Beauty_Nails_Manicure_Pedicure_CA&hash=item4143b8e544

Torch ..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UV-Flashlight-21-LED-395nM-Ultra-Violet-/220829239182?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item336a72c78e

Hello all i am looking at ordering all the stuff  in the Scotfly post.The Uv torch is no longer available but have found this torch i think is suitable but thought i better ask before ordering. http://goo.gl/jMEXA
Is this what i need Cheers 

[scotfly]

Looks the same to me RM.

[Rabmax]

Hello all i tied up a load of shrimps yesterday with the resin in the Scotfly link.The resin has hardened but is still fairly sticky have i done something wrong.Had them sitting at the window all day thought that would have finished them off.Cheers

[Rabmax]

They will have to do probably go fishing tomorrow hopefully the grayling won't mind.

[scotfly]

Hello all i tied up a load of shrimps yesterday with the resin in the Scotfly link.The resin has hardened but is still fairly sticky have i done something wrong.

You've done nothing wrong, I did say earlier...

Be aware that the uv varnish is not tack-free, but a wipe with the thinners (cleaner) or a final coat of "normal" varnish will fix it.