This is another one using seal’s fur for the shuck. This time a bit larger and darker to represent a dark olive. I’ve tied this one in a different style to the Shucking Palewatery (http://www.wildfisher.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=9384.0) Why? Because I wanted to and I can! It also shows you that many paths lead to the same destination (metaphorically speaking)
The quill used here is from a packet I bought at BFFI after Niklas told me about them; they're up to 13 inches long! Some one has some mighty big Peacocks. The dubbing is some more of wcbflytying's range. This time it's his "easy dub" a fine textured polypropylene dubbing. I've found it good for medium sized dries and nymphs.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-13.jpg)
For the wing post I've used Lemon Wooduck for its more natural appearance.
Instructions assume right-handed tyers.
HOOK - Partridge Oliver Edwards Emerger #20
THREAD - Spiderweb
SHUCK - Fiery Brown Seal's Fur
BODY - Stripped Peacock Herl (varnished)
WING POST -Lemon Wooduck
HACKLE - Grizzle Dyed Olive
THORAX - Brown Easy Dub
STEP 1
Attach the thread.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo.jpg)
Continue wrapping round the bend, catching in a few Seal's Fur fibres as you go.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-1.jpg)
STEP 2
Tie in the herl for the body. Take the thread to the position shown.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-2.jpg)
STEP 3
Wind the herl in touching turns and tie off.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-3.jpg)
Then varnish the body and allow to dry.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-4.jpg)
I normally tie a few flies up to the body stage and varnish them all at once. You can if you wish also use Superglue.
STEP 4
Prepare the Lemon Wooduck for the post by stroking the excess fibres back out of the way, leaving enough fibres for the post.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-5.jpg)
STEP 5
Tie the post on top of the hook with a couple of firm but not too tight wraps.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-6.jpg)
You can now pull the fibres back to the correct length.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-7.jpg)
Once you are happy with the post, make a few tight wraps to secure and trim the waste.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-8.jpg)
Lift the post up and make a few wrap in front to hold it in position.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-9.jpg)
And finally a couple of wraps round it.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-10.jpg)
STEP 6
Tie in the hackle.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-11.jpg)
As with the Shucking Palewatery, I bind the hackle to the post with a couple of thread wraps.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-12.jpg)
STEP 7
Apply a pinch of dubbing to the thread and wrap to form the thoracic area.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-15.jpg)
Don't forget to do a couple of figure-of-eight wraps under the hook below the post to ensure there are no gaps.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-16.jpg)
STEP 8
Wrap the hackle. I drape the final turn over the hook as shown, sweeping back the parachute hackle I then tie it off.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-17.jpg)
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-18.jpg)
STEP 9
Trim the waste and make a whipfinish.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-19.jpg)
STEP 10
Finally, tidy up the hackle and varnish for the completed fly. On smaller parachutes I generally invert the fly and varnish the underside only.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-20.jpg)
The completed fly.
(http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t149/scot2flyfish/flies/sdo-21.jpg)