Re: Casting short distances...

[Havtafish]

Sandy good advice about lining a rod. The only problem is there is alot of let say 6 weights out there that are not 6 weights at all. I have a 6 that has an Effective Line Number of 7.9 and an Action Angle of 70. This in essence makes it an 8 weight. In order to short cast as you have said with 2 up on the line I would go to a 10. Which I may add I have done and casts a dream. The whole problem is back to folk buying any weight of rod for a job and the sticker on the rod rating is not reflecting what the rod actually is. Ok Ive talked enough pish for yun night

[haresear]

The last three posts are spot on. If you are fishing a mainly short line, it makes sense to "overline" the rod by going up a line weight or even two.

I regularly do this when short line nymphing on a river. Later in the same day might see me having to cast dries 25 metres to fish right under the far bank, so the best all round solution for me on a typical day is to use a WF line of a size above what my rod is rated for. This is usually a WF5 on a 4 rod or a WF6 on a 5 rod, depending how heavy a nymph I am expecting to cast.

If I were to use a DT one size up in these circumstances the rod would be sluggish in reacting to the greater weight and it would be more difficult to throw a tight loop and therefore more difficult to get the required distance.

[Ptinid]

Fishtales

Dunno why - I understand the theory, but I still much prefer the DT for short and dry fly fishing. It may just be what I'm used to I suppose, but I do think (maybe it's just the line) that the taper to the thick section of a WF line is too short. I end up with splashy casts and almost too much energy going into the cast. My style (which is primarily roll and side casts) works best with a DT line. I have WF lines for the rod and am just not comfartable.

[haresear]

I still much prefer the DT for short and dry fly fishing. It may just be what I'm used to I suppose, but I do think (maybe it's just the line) that the taper to the thick section of a WF line is too short. I end up with splashy casts and almost too much energy going into the cast.

PTinid,

Sounds like that if you find the back taper to be too short, then you are usually casting a longer line than the "normal" 30' that rods are rated for. Having said that, there are big differences in tapers at the business end.

I used to use a Lee Wulff TT, but whilst it was great in ideal conditions, I found it lacking in a wind or when using heavier/bulkier flies. I have tried several others which had had the same shortcomings.

These days I have settled on a Scientific Anglers GPX (DT or WF to suit what I expect to be fishing on the day) for most of my river work.
Suits me....

[Malcolm]

The serious problem of casting short distances is partly because of the weight and action of modern carbon fly rods. If you waggle one without a line through it then the amount of flexing movement is negligible - they are too stiff and light. A modern carbon rod needs something to work with. In contrast older materials could flex with their own weight and therefore materials like cane and glass can cast short distances much more easily. Unfortunately however very long casting and very short casting require very different actions in a rod. The only carbon rod I've known good at casting really short distances was my old Sue Burgess Diamond Back. Unfortunately what little stiffness it had was rudely taken away by a wind assisted door of a Volvo.   

Malcolm

[haresear]

The only carbon rod I've known good at casting really short distances was my old Sue Burgess Diamond Back. Unfortunately what little stiffness it had was rudely taken away by a wind assisted door of a Volvo.

:lol: :lol: :lol: Nice one Malcolm.

[trollscot]

I fish the upper reaches of the river Endrick where short casts are the norm, i use a 7 wgt rod with a size 9 line and this helps me got a decent load on the rod  for short casts, more of a lob than a cast though .

cheers...james.

[haresear]

Alan,

A great deal of my wild troot fishing is right at my feet with either D.T. or W.F lines and it really depends on the outfit you're using.
Ok it's mostly a double taper i use as i feel it's a wee bit more versatile especially when you're looking to fish short line style.

.

Don't want to pick hares :lol:, but if you are fishing within the length of the head, the only thing that matters is the weight of the line and the front taper. The rest of the line is on the reel.

I would go along with what you are saying about a DT being more flexible as an all-round line. The reason being that (given a clear back cast) you can simply extend the length of the back cast and drop the fly where you want. If on the other hand you are fishing a river with a WF and are faced with a long cast, you have to shoot line and just judge where to drop the fly.

Depends where you expect to catch most of your fish I suppose. On the Clyde, a DT5 would do me fine for most of my fishing during summer. If I think I won't be using heavily weighted nymphs, I'll use a #4 rod, but probably with a #5 line (WF) just in case I resort to weighted nymphs.

In winter I would go for a WF6 line on a #5 rod for nymphing for grayling.
That way I still get fun out of playing fish and can fish a very short line, which works most of the time. If I have to cast say 20 yds plus and feed line down the current via stack mending, the heavier head helps carry the weighted nymphs out there.

One thing I would add. Some lines are more geared towards long casting than fishing. Some make great play of "presentation". I had a couple of Wulff TT lines, which were great for casting small, light flies in ideal conditions. Absolute crap into a wind, or using a decently weighted nymph. There are loads of these lines around. Personally, I reckon if you are happy with the profile of a line, stick with it. If you want to improve your distance casing (which is after all, just a barometer of your technique), do some practice or take a lesson. Don't change the line.

[haresear]

Casting technique is the key and very much overlooked a good range and understanding of styles makes for a vast range and versatility when faced with our ever changing and unpredictable waether.

Too right Alan. Different casting methods allow you to approach your fishing from all sorts of different angles. You will get longer drag free drifts by putting in an aerial mend etc.

I love fishing pocket water because every part of it presents a new challenge and needs a curve or a big wiggle put in the line.

[Wildfisher]

Magnus put me onto this some time ago, but you guys might want to have a look at it too. Especially the bits on fly lines. It'll  help explode some of the myths of  "standardisation" of rods and lines etc. It  explains  why average / poor casters have trouble with "fast" rods  and often find they have to move up a line weight or two to flex the rod properly and not just at short distances either. I found exactly this when I moved from "traditional"  softer through action  rods to stiffer tippier designs.

http://www.common-cents.info/