Hi all
In case any of you have even had a slight thought as to what my avatar is here it is in a bigger size
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c321/drumgerry/Eklund2.jpg)
Making scandinavian type knives (blades are bought in!!) is another of my hobby horses. And this one looked suitably fish like to work as an avatar here.
Hope you don't mind me posting this as it is only tenuously linked to actual fishing despite the knives making great hunting/fishing tools.
Cheers
Gerry
Attleborough are a good company uncleboo - they have a good rep and the kits all have good stuff in them. I started off making knives a bit differently though - first of all I joined this site
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/index.php? - totally essential if you're considering making a knife.
And then I made my own kit up from gear from this Finnish company
http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html and later from this Danish company
http://thegoodstuffshop.dk/shopfront.asp - totally reliable and friendly, quick service.
The handle material in my knife is ebony for the bolster, then tulipwood veneer, and then myrtle burl with mosaic tube for a lanyard. The blade is by an amazing Scandi bladesmith called Maihkel Eklund.
Cheers
Gerry
Thanks Uncleboo! :oops:
Yeah I carved it but with a wee bit of help with a drum sander attached to a drill - makes a huge difference as the curves are really easy to execute with it. All I need to do now is make the sheath to go with it and it'll be with me on all my fishing trips this season.
Cheers
Gerry
Hi Uncleboo
I'm certainly not qualified to speak on the relative sharpening characteristics of the many and various steels available. From my own experience I can say I don't have a problem bringing either stainless or carbon steel up to a scary sharp edge. I think with a well forged blade and a decent sharpening system - either diamond stones or water stones or those ceramic stick gizmos which can put a precise bevel on the edge to the nearest degree - you can't go wrong. And finishing off with a leather strop makes the edge lethal. And a good blade should hold such a keen edge for a while under ordinary circumstances.
Cheers
Gerry
Carbon is harder than stainless therefore will hold its edge a bit longer.But carbon will discolour.Both can be sharpened and honed to surgical sharpness.That avatar looks like a cracking knife.Well done
Gerry, I've just ordered a blade and some bits and pieces from the finnish company in the links above. I've been toying with the idea of making a knife for some time and was going to order from attenboroughs until I saw the prices on the finnish website.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Pearly - Brisa are a top notch company. You'll get great service from Dennis. Are you making a Scandi or something different?
Cheers
Gerry
I'll second that - Brisa give great service and the blades are quite cheap. I've made three now, and when I've given them away I'll make some more. They're not too difficult to make - between britishbaldes.com and Brisa you'll find plenty tips.
I've always found carbon steel much easier to sharpen than stainless. Stainless is harder and will keep an edge for longer, in theory, but carbon will take an edge quickly and easily. Carbon steel does discolour over time and will rust if you leave it damp. I use a 200/1000 grit combination water stone followed by a sharpening steel - it's quite easy to get carbon steel blades scarily sharp.
I'm making a scandi- bought a Lauri blade.
I made a nice Leuku with a Lauri blade. They're nice and hold a good edge. BtW - one thing which will make or break your Scandi is the time and care you take fitting the bolster to the shoulders of the blade whether you use wood or metal although personally I prefer a nice hardwood like ebony. If you have ordered metal and you fancy trying wood instead drop me a line and I can send you a piece of ebony as I have a few bits lying around.
Cheers
Gerry