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Line for centrepin

Started by zeolite, October 27, 2008, 06:37:38 PM

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harelug

I've used a centerpin for nearly 30 years now, never had a problem with the rate of retrieve, what's important is the rate of presentation, often trotting 60 yards and I feel the only way to get this consistantly right is with a centerpin. Hooking at 60 yards needs a quick response and again the centerpin comes out on top for me. As haresear says, with light tackle you bat the spool and I'd imagine retrieve rates to be similar to a fixed spool. As for line, don't load with too much more than your maximum trotting range otherwise it binds up, especially after playing fish. I'm using 4lb mainline these days, cheap Mullarkeys stuff. Think I've been using the same bulk spool for the last 20 years, suppose I really should replenish my stocks.
There is no greater
  fan of fly fishing

  Than the worm

The General

Over the last thirty years what reel have you been comparing your centre pin too Harelug and why are you having to trot 60yds to get your fish.    The most popular reels for trotting have to be the Abus and maybe that is because of the huge difference in the cost of purchasing a "decent" centre pin.   Being in the water and presenting correctly is to me the most important thing in any style of fishing and I would still say that the 501 style reel overall is by far and away the most efficient method of doing this and I would be a wee bit miffed at spending over three hundred pounds on a reel and having to "bat" it.   Anyway the question was about line and the answer to that is one that floats very very well, has low light refraction, good knot strength and doesn't cost an arm and a leg is close to the answer.
It is not a competition to say my method is better than anyone elses it is information given through too many years learning, to encourage someone using a method for the first time.


Davie   :)

burnie

This is a bit like makes of golf clubs,or footie boots,you pays your money and takes your choice.I've still got my old reels from the 50's and boy are they useless compared to todays wizards.
What few rivers I've fished for Grayling in Scotland,and this includes the Tay,you won't be trotting too far as the pegs are shortish due to the undulating bottom.I like to fish the bottom of the river quite hard,I would liken the method to being a bit like Cheq. nymphing.If you trot too far you're likely to miss the fish in the holes.Use a bait apron and keep mobile,then if you fish on a "shorter trot",the type of reel is less important.Fast biting fish like Bleak and Dace result in a lot of missed/lost fish on the strike due to slack line when using a fixed spool reel,here a tight line is vital,indeed it was the reason that match anglers ditched the reel altogether and went back to the "pole" method.
Your choice of line is also affected by the fact that a lot of rivers insist on a maximum of 4lb breaking strains,so you dont want to use anything that is too brittle,stretched,low diameter ones are to be avoided if you don't have a rod with a very soft tip.
Angling pressure usually dictates the choices at this time of year,popular stretches with easy access,can still produce but fine "match" tactics and tackle will be required,where as the quiter spots where "jungle warfare" is the order of the day,heavier gear and bigger baits will work.I have caught Grayling on 10lb line , size 6 hook and a big lump of luncheon meat for bait when fishing for winter Chub and Barbel,but for quantity,I would say size 16 hook to 2lb hook length and a maggot or twa usually does the trick.Finally,if you are not planning on eating your catch,please return them as nicely as you would a trout.
P.s personally I feel braid is too soft as a main line,you loose a certain amount of float control,as a hook length,then the Carp anglers braids of around 10lb breaking strain do the business.

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