Flyline/braided loop repair

[bloodybutcher]

I have a problem with a Cortland 333 floater with a braided loop on the end, the problem being that it has developed quite a severe kink in the end of the line in the braided loop.  This causes the leader to land at an angle to the fly line and in a bit of a mess due to it not turning over properly.  I have tried giving it a stretch and bending and holding it in the oppopsite direction of the kink but this hasn't solved the problem.  I am going to try leaving it under tension over night, if that doesn't work then I am going to cut the end of the line and put a new braided loop on. 

My question is, will cutting the last 6in of the fly line off make much of a difference to how it feels/casts? 

Also, can anyone recommend some braided loops? 

[Wildfisher]

I can't see  cutting off 6" will make any  difference. Rather than use a braided loop (dreadful things for anything other than heavy gear) try stripping  back  a few inches  of the line coating,  forming a loop, whipping it with fine tying thread, super gluing that then sealing the whole thing with a varnish or if you prefer flexible adhesive like silicon RTV; this will prevent water ingresses. 

Very neat, strong and won't sink. With very light lines you don't even have to strip back the coating.  I have landed wild trout  up to 7lb using this with no problems at all.

It's laughable but I recently read this described as the "Paul Proctor Method"!  :roll: 

I know guys who were using  this technique when Mr Proctor was in nappies.  :lol:

[IrishFloatTube]

It might be time to go back to the figure "8" knot, used for generations by fly fishers, save all the fart,
  :   breac uaig

For all leaders shorter than one rod length the old reliable Figure of Eight is what I also use. It's the KISS principle in action! Also has a tiny ball of line to increase buoyancy at the end that tends to sink if water penetrates the tip of the line. I really think it's a better knot when dry fly fishing.
On longer leaders a needle knotted 12" length of 12lb maxima does the job and slips through the rings.

[Blanefishing]

Except for heavy sinking line stuff I would never use a braided loop.   Anti braided loop is a major hobby horse of mine especially on a floating line.  It causes the issue that you have, and also makes the end sink, causes hingeing on turnover, creates a wake etc etc.  The best way for dry fly fishing that I have found is to put a 40lb bs approx butt section into the line via super glue or nail knot or both if you want belt and bracers and that this forms the basis of a tapered cast which overcomes all the issues I have mentioned.  Straight supergluing is the best and no trout will pull it out.

Alberto

[River Chatter]

Just to be clear Alberto, you use a needle through the end of the line, then superglue some mono and feed it in? That places a great deal of trust in the holding properties of the super glue alone. How far in do you take it?

[scotty9]

Except for heavy sinking line stuff I would never use a braided loop.   Anti braided loop is a major hobby horse of mine especially on a floating line.  It causes the issue that you have, and also makes the end sink, causes hingeing on turnover, creates a wake etc etc.  The best way for dry fly fishing that I have found is to put a 40lb bs approx butt section into the line via super glue or nail knot or both if you want belt and bracers and that this forms the basis of a tapered cast which overcomes all the issues I have mentioned.  Straight supergluing is the best and no trout will pull it out.

Alberto

Alan would beg to differ!  :lol:

After messing about with leader connections on an old line, i cut the butt section off an old tapered leader and nail knotted this to the end of the fly line. I then tied a perfection loop (or double surgeons if you want a bulky knot!) Then just use a loop to loop with tapered leaders. I tested this pretty extensively before putting it on my good line and i can't fault turnover one bit! It's very good! Only issue is three knots in a row so best not to pull the leader inside the rings. Let's you avoid cutting back the tip everytime you wish to nail knot on a leader.

I couldn't pull this loop off the line so no trout is going to! When you tie the loop onto the nail knotted piece, it will likely kink. If it does, just boil the kettle and stretch/roll the kinked line in the steam. The heat will take out the kink and it will lie perfectly straight.

[bloodybutcher]

Thanks for the input everyone.  I have been toying with the idea of whipping/nail knotting a loop of mono on the end and I think the forum has persuaded me to go that way.  

Oh, and its more like 4ins I will be cutting off (there is that much fly line in the braid), must be the male trait of overestimating lengths :roll:

[Blanefishing]

River chatterer there is no way that a fish will pull out the super glued line.  If you pull it straight between your hands then you will probably pull it out but a fish against the curve of a rod will not. 

It is the neatest finish and takes up about 1/4 -1/2 inch of line.  Push a needle up the middle (this will only work on braided line core) as far as you can about 1/2 inch.  Push it out the side its entire length then heat the needle be carefull not to over cook it.  Generally when the line twitches or starts to move its cooked, when cool push it all the way through.  Cut a point on the butt section and push it up the line and out the side apply the super glue and pull back when set remove the waste end.  All my leaders start with a butt section of 40lb orvis super strong which is approx .020 diameter and is 57 inches long so if I want to tie a new leader on I use a small section of the but and adjust the new leader accordingly.  If not a new leader then I just modify an existing.  This butt section will last a long time and if it does not then 1/2 inch at a time is going to last a few years before I destroy the tip of the line.  I have never yet had to bin a line because of using up the tip.
Loop to loop I guess would be second best but still has disadvantages mainly that it creates a wake.
alberto

[Wildfisher]

Like Fred mentions with regard to Paul Procter, it's interesting to hear someone claim credit for a method that's been around a long time.

To  be fair I don't think he did Brian. Someone on another forum seemed to be  claiming it was.

[bibio1]

I too used braided loop for many years and was never quite happy with them. For all floating and intermediate lines I now use the superglue method or a nail knot. For river fishing I don't use a loop to loop methof but instead prefer a staight double grinner. Turnover is much better and absolutley no wake.

The only need for braided loops in my opinion is for salmon fishers when the maybe use sink tips.