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Fly Box Foam

Started by Black-Don, May 08, 2012, 11:00:55 AM

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Black-Don

20 strips of this stuff arrived today



20 strips of self adhesive micro slit foam. Each strip will hold up to 45 flies. 9" long 3/4" wide. 3/16 thick
( The black thing is a Canon SLR lens cover  :? )

I probably won't use it in the fly box I'm making on the other thread but will keep it for one I've made out of good quality hardwood. I'll have to get some timber machined by a woodshop for me for this purpose though as I don't own a thicknesser/planer and can't justify the cost of one at the present time.

Quote from: Inchlaggan on May 08, 2012, 06:41:47 PM
Had a wee trip to the workshop today to try one for myself, did not go down the mitre route, made things more complicated with the joints, mix of mahogany, cherry and oak, none of this plywood stuff. I'll put up a photae when it's done.

Quote from: guest on May 08, 2012, 07:19:15 PM
Oh aye and as for this " mahogany, cherry and oak " toffery. It's just as well they don't allow gazumping in Scotland is all I can say    :roll: :lol:

Ken,

joking aside, I'd be really keen to see what you've come up with, what kind of joints you used and how you achieved them as your skills in this field are obviously far superior to mine. I'll put a joint of any kind you want in a piece of 120 x 19mm timber but scale it down to 18 x 10mm stripwood and the tools I have are being taken to the limit unless I use mitred corners. Any advice you have in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Inchlaggan

Quote from: guest on May 10, 2012, 01:20:38 AM

Ken,

joking aside, I'd be really keen to see what you've come up with, what kind of joints you used and how you achieved them . I'll put a joint of any kind you want in a piece of 120 x 19mm timber but scale it down to 18 x 10mm stripwood and the tools I have are being taken to the limit unless I use mitred corners. Any advice you have in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Donald

The first thing to point out is that whilst you are "scaling down" to small work, I am "scaling up" from model-making. So we are both on a learning curve. I used finger-joints cut by hand with a very small saw -

http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/tools-accessories/tools-accessories/Precision-Razor-Saw-Set.aspx

I could have used the minature Dremel Router, but it is set up for another project at the moment.
As I am not a model engineer (in the sense of making working steam engines as a couple of forumites have), most of my stuff just has to look right. So there is a lot of preparatory work in CAD, and jig-making. Alternative materials also feature very often as (say) plastics can easily be painted to represent wood or metal.
If the temperature rises a few degrees I'll get back out to the workshop and finish the box off and post some pics.
'til a voice as bad as conscience,
rang interminable changes,
on an everlasting whisper,
day and night repeated so-
"Something hidden, go and find it,
Go and look beyond the ranges,
Something lost beyond the ranges,
Lost and waiting for you,
Go."

Black-Don

#13
Ken,

I've been having a think about this, sourcing materials, tools etc and might be able to adapt what I have without spending a fortune.

I don't have a router table for the dremel but reckon I could easily make one and mount the dremel by taking off the front housing cap just below the collet nut and mounting it on  a ply base by replacing the housing cap with a 10mm thick nut. I can then use the dremel to cut finger or mortice joints quite easily.

I'm also considering making up some presentation boxes routed out of single pieces of wood and will be able to make these out of cut off's  but still quite expensive.

Traditionalist

Once you start buying tools you will have no time for fishing! :)

Like many other things, building up and maintaining even a moderate workshop is more or less a full time job, and it's not cheap either!

TL
MC


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