Hauling

[Traditionalist]

It is not usually very much use in practical fishing situations to try and aerialise more than about 35 feet of any line, most especially with a WF line ( which normally has a thirty foot "head"). They are designed to be shot. The heavy head part is aerialised, and the thin running line is shot. This is much more difficult to do if you have too much running line out. Indeed, beyond a certain very limited amount, it is quite impossible, as the thin running line will not transfer energy to the head.

The same applies to "shooting heads", although these may vary considerably in length.

Ideally you should not have more than a yard of thin running line outside the rod tip. To practice, do the following; aerialise as much line as you can cast comfortably, without any strain or heaving or hauling or anything else. If the line is correctly matched to your rod, you will find this is about thirty to thirty-eight feet. MOST LINES WHICH ARE RATED AT THE SAME AFTM# AS YOUR ROD WILL NOT MATCH AT ALL!!!! You will normally require much heavier lines as WF?s or as shooting heads, as these are much shorter than the line the rod is designed to cast. If the line does not match, results will be poor.

On rods marked #7/#8 then you should try a #9 head first. One can make up one?s own heads, from ordinary DT lines, but this is the subject of another article. Quite a few people will disagree with this, and tell you all sorts of things. If you want to KNOW! what works best, then simply try it, you don?t have to take my word for it. For a lot of my fishing I use much heavier heads than this with no problems.

If using a WF line, you must determine where the head part of the line ends, lay this about a yard or so outside the rod tip, and then take a felt waterproof pen, and mark the line WHERE YOUR LEFT HAND IS HOLDING IT AT THE ROD BUTT. Do not try to aerialise any more line than this. Even very good casters are unable to aerialise more than about three or four yards over the head length of a WF line, despite using various tricks, as it is next to impossible to get a satisfactory power transfer from the thin running line to the head. The cast just collapses.

If you are unsure where the head part of the line ends, and the running line starts, just pull off line through the tip ring with your fingers, ( DON?T BEND THE ROD TO DO THIS; PULL LINE DIRECTLY FROM THE REEL; AND THEN STRAIGHT OUT OF THE TIP RING! You can otherwise easily break your rod tip), until you notice a fairly sudden step-down in the line diameter. Some WF lines will have "back tapers" of varying lengths. Most shooting heads have no back taper. ( At least at the time of writing). That is the end of the head. Having determined where this is, pull two to three feet more out of the tip ring, and then mark the line at THE BUTT WHERE YOUR LEFT HAND WILL HOLD IT. This ensures that you always have the optimum amount of line out. Trying to aerialise much more than this will simply not work, so it is pointless to try.

Distance casting is easier with a shooting head, but a WF will also work if you realise exactly what you are attempting to do. You will not be able to achieve the same distance though. On water, and in thick undergrowth or similar, it is best to use a line tray, as otherwise your line will constantly tangle, or be held by the water when you attempt to shoot. On grass, when practising, it does not matter.

You can cast further to some extent simply by putting more power in the forward cast, and then letting go of the line you have previously pulled off the reel and have laid out properly, at the right moment. The right moment is exactly at the end of the forward cast. Too soon and you will lose power, and the line will wrap around the rod below the butt ring, too late and the line will not shoot to its maximum potential.

In order to gain more distance, we need more line speed. This is achieved by hauling on the line at the right moment.

One may work out line normally in order to extend the head initially. Here, we are assuming that the line is already extended properly, before the cast is actually commenced. This will be the result of false casting, roll casting, or similar, under normal fishing conditions.

Assuming a right handed caster, the simple way to explain the single haul is as follows. Your back cast has completed as normal, and the line is straight out behind you. As you start your forward casting stroke, you should be holding the line tightly in your left hand, YOUR HANDS SHOULD BE CLOSE TOGETHER, ( for maximum power, tournament casters reach forward and grasp the line at the butt ring, but do not try this at first, it just complicates matters ), as the rod moves forward in the casting stroke, pull down on the line, dependent on how hard, how fast, and how long you pull ( the length of the left hand pulling stroke), the line speed increases proportionally and
dramatically, as it is directly accelerated by the pull of your hand. Ideally, the haul should be of the same duration as the stroke, accelerating smoothly up to the stop, just as the rod tip is doing, propelled by the casting hand, but in practice this is not required, even a short haul at the right moment will give massive line acceleration.

The cast consists of two completely independent components, the rod stroke with the casting hand, and the haul with the line hand. These movements must be coordinated properly for maximum effect.

As the forward cast completes, and the rod is stopped, let go of the line completely with your left hand. You will probably be quite amazed at the distance you have shot. The first few times you do this it is quite common for the line to go out with so much power that the ratchet on the reel comes into operation! This means you could have shot more line easily! Try to keep the haul smooth and powerful, do not jerk it.

One of the most common mistakes beginners make, is trying to apply too much power too quickly. Once you get the hang of things, you will be surprised at how little power is really required to cast a very long way. The technique is far more important than brute force.

Concentrate on casting UP! and back, not just back. This will keep your back cast high, and prevent a lot of problems.


The double haul is slightly harder to accomplish. At the start of the cast, your rod tip should be low, almost touching the ground, and there must be no slack in the line. YOUR HANDS SHOULD BE CLOSE TOGETHER, the line gripped firmly in your left hand. Raise the rod slowly and smoothly to the ten o clock position KEEPING YOUR HANDS TOGETHER, move smoothly into your back cast at ten o clock, and at the same time haul down on the line with your left hand, as the back cast flows out smoothly up and behind you, and still holding the line tightly MOVE YOUR LEFT HAND BACK with the line, as the line goes out, and the rod drifts slightly, so that your hands are once again
almost touching. Do not try to speed up this movement, simply allow the line to feed back up through the butt ring.

As soon as the line is all straight out behind, the forward thrust of the rod is started, and the left hand immediately hauls down on the line. The forward drive is now complete, and the rod is stopping, the haul hand has reached it?s maximum travel, and at PRECISELY THIS MOMENT, release the line from the left hand.

The line will shoot a very long way. A ninety foot cast is usually no problem with this method. Do not hold the line with your left hand, or form "o"s with your fingers or anything like that. Let go of the line completely. A haul ( the amount of line pulled with the left hand ),of a couple of inches is sufficient for most casting, although as I said, the longer harder and faster the haul, the greater the distance possible.

Top casters using this technique, and shooting heads, reach distances in excess of 80 yards, which is TWO HUNDRED AND FORTY FEET. This is not a misprint or a mistake, it is a fact.

For normal casting purposes, no particular exertion is required. There is absolutely no need to "bust a gut", your movements should be controlled and not over hurried. If you attempt to reach maximum distance with every cast, you will however tire quickly. Once you can consistently reach 70 feet without strain, leave it at that. You can occasionally try for much further,but don't try it all the time, or your fishing will become more like a workout than a pleasant experience. These techniques are especially good for covering a lot of water, as in much salt-water fishing, and on large still-waters.

With practice and as your timing improves, you will routinely cast one hundred feet with ease. Take a tape measure along, and peg out the field where you are casting before you start. This saves a lot of nonsensical argument. Try also to remember that this is not a competition, you are simply trying to improve your casting, irrespective of what anybody else says or does.

A well built powerful person who uses this technique properly will be able to cast further than a slightly built person. For the same reason that they can throw a hammer a javelin or a discus further. They have more power to start with.

It should also be remembered that there are certain physical limits. For a person of relatively normal build and height, the best rod for this purpose is a stiffish fast action rod about nine feet three inches long. Taller more powerful people can often use longer rods. Some people prefer longer rods for certain types of fishing, although a 10 foot rod is about the maximum sensible length for most single hand rods in normal use.

Double hauling for distance with a seven foot #4 trout rod and a DT line is just silly, although a double ( or single ) haul may be useful for other purposes in this case. When fishing into a wind, or using heavier than normal flies for instance, and wishing the leader to turn over properly.

For some of you who asked about shooting heads. It is important to realise that the WEIGHT of a shooting head is critical, and not its length. The length is to a great extent immaterial. There are however limits.

Thirty feet of #8 line weighs about 212 grains. This is about the same weight as 45 feet of #5

39 feet of #6

33 feet of # 7

30 feet of #8

27 feet of #9

22 feet of #10

18 feet of # 11

Once you know what actual weight of line, in grains or ounces, your rod casts best with, you can use any line of the same actual weight on it, irrespective of its length. Of course you will have trouble trying to aerialise more than sixty feet or so of line, and never reach the optimal weight. Less than about twenty eight feet of line is also harder to cast.

A thin fly line has less air resistance than a thick one, so theoretically you should be able to cast 45 feet of #5 a lot further than 30 feet of #8. However, many casters have trouble aerialising 45 feet of head properly. In practice, a head about thirty feet long matched to the rod is about the best casting instrument for normal fishing.

A high density sinking head is about the best line for attaining pure distance in normal fishing. Assuming pure distance is what you want. It is also the best line for fishing deep water.

As ever, it is as well to realise that casting is only one skill required for angling. It is no use casting one hundred feet if the fish are at your feet, or only thirty feet away.

Of course, if they are a hundred feet away, then go for it!

TL
MC

[rabbitangler]

tver used a head, never really seen the need. I must in admit the the vast majority of the fishing I do I catch nearly all my fish casting 15 yds at a maximum & often considerably less. If you can get close to a fish through stealth then why cast huge distances. I know there are situations when a very long cast is required, but these are fairly rare I would suggest??

[Traditionalist]

tver used a head, never really seen the need. I must in admit the the vast majority of the fishing I do I catch nearly all my fish casting 15 yds at a maximum & often considerably less. If you can get close to a fish through stealth then why cast huge distances. I know there are situations when a very long cast is required, but these are fairly rare I would suggest??

Depends largely on where you are fishing. In salt-water for instance, it is often necessary to cast quite a way. Basically it comes down to where the fish are.

As you say a stealthy approach is often preferable, as casting to a fish from a distance may spook it, or others. This is especially important on rivers.  Although for some wet fly-fishing I have found a longish cast downstream far more productive than short down and across fishing.

The main reason for long casting on most still-waters ( and in salt-water), is not to reach fish, but to cover more water. This is a bit silly in many places really, as a short stealthy cast in the margins often turns up more and better fish.

All depends on circumstances, and what you are trying to achieve.

TL
MC

[Fishtales]

There are some who are also using them more and more for salmon fishing on big rivers. You can even use them with a spey cast I am told

[Traditionalist]

There are some who are also using them more and more for salmon fishing on big rivers. You can even use them with a spey cast I am told

Usually used with an underhand, ( Scandinavian Spey Style), cast. Info here;

http://www.letsflyfish.com/underhandcast.htm

TL
MC

[rabbitangler]

Seem to remember Arthur Oglesby advocating a head when fishing for Salmon at the back end

[rabbitangler]

every time I try to fish "fine & far off" I lose the bloody things, I will stick to my usual, I've never been able to walk and chew gum, so double hauling is out of the question :shock:breac uaig

Don't beleive you, 'hands together - hands apart, hands together - hands apart' simple as that.

Big, huge, enormous hauls are rarely ever required, subtlety as with most things fishing is the way to go.