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line to leader connection

Started by sooth moother, May 10, 2006, 01:04:24 PM

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sooth moother

Thought I’d share this with you, not sure if it’s a “discovery” or not.

Last year, I moved to God’s own troot country Caithness, bringing my stocky bashers tackle & habits. Had quite a reasonable first wild trooting season last year. Over the winter consulting this site and a friend (who is the biggest tackle tart in Scotland) I up graded my tackle.
One thing I discovered (never seen them before) was those braided loops for attaching line to leader (I know I’m years behind the times here!). Bought a few and fitted to new expensive line on new expensive reel, went fishing with new expensive rod – my casting was so bad I was nearly in tears with frustration.
Anyway, I’ve now calmed down and am reviewing with the help of wise friend plus here (thanks Swithun for starting casting threads – very useful). One issue being these loop thingys are not for me and would revert to “super glued  nail connection”. My wise friend also advised a knotless tapered leader  - never seen one before, always made my own using nylon.
Was in Lidl on Saturday and saw a sewing kit full of threads & yarn so I bought it for fly tying stuff -get there quick as they are good value.  
Back to nail connection and my “discovery” – Used my usual needle to make a hole up and out of the line to enable me to thread in the leader and found I could not make a big enough hole. So I started to go through my new sewing kit for a fatter needle. In this kit were a number of needles for sewing machines. These are short with fat body but fine point – easiest “nail hole” I’ve ever made and went further through the line (before exiting the side) than any I’ve done before.
Now, here is my “discovery” – the needle point has a hole in it; thread the fine end of the tapered leader though this and pull the whole thing back (through the tunnel) and keep pulling, thicker & thicker until you are about where you need the taper. Add a dob of super glue, pull slight amount more and trim.

zeolite

An alternative way is to make a loop on the end of your flyline.
Use acetone to strip off a short length and then whip the loop on with tying thread and superglue. Then you just tie a loop in your leader and join them loop to loop.
I use cheapo tapered leaders as recomended by Mr Liddle with a stainless ring to put the point on.

Dead simple.
Schrodinger's troots pictured above.

sooth moother

Had considered that, but the way I've done it there are no loops just a smooth run from the line down to where I've knotted in the sacrificial tip & dropper.

Not absolutely sure if this is bullshit but was told you get a hinge effect with rings.

haresear

Sooth,

Sounds interesting. Up till now I've been using nail knots which are dead easy. But you have to trim the end of the fly line really close to avoid the fly line end sticking in the tip ring on the retrieve, or more importantly, when a fish makes that last bid for freedom. I have never had the knot slip off yet, but I live in terror every time I replace the nail knot.

I'll go to Lidl tonight. Thanks for the tip.

Re you comment on rings. I don't think they hinge to any degree. The connecting knots are tight enough to avoid this.
Protect the edge.

haresear

Swithun,

QuoteI can get a hinge using really long tippets with a ring.

Quotehave 12 lb flourocarbon from the fly line for about 4 feet, then a small ring. I then add however many feet of copolymer after that.

It looks to me as though you could extend the length of the butt piece at the expense of the long tippet. Why not go for a tapered butt?
This should give a more balanced turnover and should cut out the hingeing problem.
Protect the edge.

silverbutcher

I bought some tapered leaders the other week and cut one of them into three parts. I then joined it back together using two rings, and attached droppers to them. Used it a couple of Saturdays past, casting into the wind all day without once getting into a tangle.
The difference in turnover of the flies from my normal made up casts was amazing.
I've not noticed any hingeing effect yet. Maybe this would become more noticeable through time and usage.

Billy

haresear

Silverbutcher wrote:

[/quote]I bought some tapered leaders the other week and cut one of them into three parts. I then joined it back together using two rings, and attached droppers to them.
Quote

Billy, did you not find that the cast/leader was very thick around the top portion? How long a leader do you normally use?

Swithun, another thing that may help with your turnover, rather than have a big step down from butt to tippet is to introduce another shorter length of say 7-8lb between the two. As I say, I use factory tapered leaders, so don't have this problem until the leader gets shorter, then I add a buffer piece.

I agree with you re the short leaders for tree lined wee rivers.
Protect the edge.

silverbutcher

QuoteBilly, did you not find that the cast/leader was very thick around the top portion? How long a leader do you normally use?

The tapered leader was a 12' Fulling Mill.

I cut the first two feet of the thick end off, and although it was still quite thick, I just made a loop and did a loop to loop connection to the fly line.

This left me with a 10' leader. I was loch fishing with my 11' 3" rod.

On the river I normally use a cast of 6 - 8 feet.


By the way I had to use a tucked half blood knot on the rings as the leader just pulled through on a normal half blood. Very slippery stuff :!:

Billy

zeolite

QuoteBy the way I had to use a tucked half blood knot on the rings as the leader just pulled through on a normal half blood. Very slippery stuff  

UNI KNOT!
Schrodinger's troots pictured above.

silverbutcher

QuoteUNI KNOT!

:oops:  :oops:  Thanks Ian  :oops:  :oops:


Billy

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