Fly Lines - Make A Welded Loop

[Wildfisher]

Alex put me on to this. I now use it on all my fly lines. Beats all other loop types I have tried by a mile. Strong, neat, sealed and waterproof.

Here are step by step instructions on the salmon forum, no need to re-invent the wheel.  Take a look. You can use a heat gun or a fag lighter, I have used both with complete success.

http://salmo.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=lines&action=display&thread=1686

This may not work with every fly line make, depends on the coating. It works very well  with Wildfisher lines. For trout lines just double the line back an inch  or less and slip the heat shrink on, it is enough. Don't bother with using two bits of line as shown, it is an overkill.  What is important is the method.  I have tested these loops to destruction. They won't break.  :lol:

[Clan Ford]

I make welded loops but I just double over the line and apply the heat-shrink.  I've never had them come apart.  Still don't like them on my dry fly set up though - I use them on most other lines.

Norm

[Clan Ford]

That looks a great idea - but where do you source the heat shrink tubing from (ps got a wee bit spare Norm? )...

E.

Yes, just pop round.....

Norm

[River Chatter]

That's a good link.  I'd be tempted to use this on an intermediate or slow sinker but not on a floater.  I had a factory loop a while back and felt that it landed a little heavy on the water even when my cast was a good one.  It serves as a reminder that fly line manufactures let us down, by not making a line that tapers to a fine point with a small loop attached, leaving us to by poly leaders and so on to make the link between fly line and leader.  A fly line that ends with one of those little metal rings would be good.

[Malcolm]

I tried that whitlock join but several joins and the line snapped every time - the plastic sheared away - so I went back to whipping the exposed core which has never let me down.

[Wildfisher]

never seen this happen in 2 seasons use

Once you break the 2lb that could all change.   :lol:

Sorry Alan, couldn't resist   :lol:

[Malcolm]

There's the difference Alan. I spend more time fishing for seatrout and salmon than I do for resident brownies and grayling. The average weight of the seatrout is over 3lbs and the salmon average about 7lb and last year I had several around the 10lb mark. To get them in quickly I hold the rod about 15 inches above the handle with the butt tucked in my midriff to get enough pressure on.

So when I pulled the whitlock join and the plastic sheared (I tried several times and I abraded the end of the leader with sandpaper) I knew that it was a risk I wasn't going to take. Now if I was fishing a 5 weight with a 5lb point that wouldn't concern me at all - the point would break first. It is a neat joint but unless I am making a mistake - and that is more than possible - then there are stronger solutions.

[dazdidge]

Make sure you get the heatshrink that has glue already inside it. Some of it comes without and will be more likey to come apart. You can get it from RS components, Maplin Electronics, Farnell etc or in fact just about anywhere that does electronics. I have some here if anyone needs some.

cheers
daz

[Wildfisher]

Make sure you get the heatshrink that has glue already inside it. Some of it comes without and will be more likey to come apart. You can get it from RS components, Maplin Electronics, Farnell etc or in fact just about anywhere that does electronics. I have some here if anyone needs some.

cheers
daz

for a welded  loop you don't want glue, the tubing simply forms the weld and is then taken off

[haresear]

for a welded  loop you don't want glue, the tubing simply forms the weld and is then taken off

Remember to get the clear stuff. You need to be able to see what is happening to the fly line coating.

Alex