Fly Lines - Make A Welded Loop

[Clan Ford]

The stuff I use is called "King of the Pond" Super Shrink Tube.  It's 2.4mm and is used in Carp rigs - got it off Ebay.  I don't see why normal electrical type heat shrink shouldn't work but as Alex has pointed out it's better if it is clear as you can actually watch the line "meld" in front of your eyes.

Norm

[Ythanjoe]

The welded loop must keep the tip floating high, which would be a plus . I am still using the no -knot join with zap a gap which has yet to fail in action, but the tip will sink eventualy without a bit of mucilin/floatant.
Joe

[scotty9]

The welded loop must keep the tip floating high, which would be a plus . I am still using the no -knot join with zap a gap which has yet to fail in action, but the tip will sink eventualy without a bit of mucilin/floatant.
Joe

Don't you believe it, I sunk one a few time at the weekend  :lol:

[Ythanjoe]

May try the Sally nail stuff in the privacy of my home Alan, but its not what I want found in my fly vest with the Avon skin so soft, if the proverbial bus, or heavy spate snuffs me out  :gay4
If the welded loop doesn't ride high what are its merits relative to other methods, did yours sink because the coating was nicked/ cut Scotty ?
Joe

[scotty9]

Joe - no it wasn't, it was probably just the river currents to be honest.

The welded loop just gives you the flexibility of a loop-to-loop connection without a join like you get with a braided loop. Saves you chopping up the fly line for nail knots too. I love the idea of the loop but I just don't get on with them as well as a needle knot.

[Ythanjoe]

Not keen on  loop to loops, combined with long leaders they don't slip through the tip ring so well, if theres a last minute dash at the net, see what you mean about eating away at the end of the fly line though, every time the leader needs replacing, although it doesnt make much difference to my casting until I'm 20" or so into the line....
Joe

[haresear]

If the welded loop doesn't ride high what are its merits relative to other methods,

I've only used the d.i.y. welded loop on a fast sinker, but I have factory welded loops on some of my lines and they do float OK. Even if the thick portion of the tapered leader starts sinking and pulling the tip under, I don't find it too inconvenient to give the leader butt and flyline tip a quick wipe with mucilin.

Some of my lighter lines like the #4 have needle knotted leaders and I prefer needle knots for smoothness and delicacy on the light set-up. I tend to use the welded loops on the heavier lines, #5 or above.

Where the welded loops do score over the needle knot is when you need to change a knackered leader fast, or if you are a fan of polyleaders (I'm not) or furled leaders, which I'm giving another trial.

For the furled leader I use a loop to loop connection and for standard mono leaders I use a 3 turn half blood to the welded loop to prevent hingeing in the cast.

Not keen on  loop to loops, combined with long leaders they don't slip through the tip ring so well

The furled leader actually copes quite well with that, but not as smooth as a needle knot. The half blood trimmed really snug is not bad at all. again, not as smooth as a needle knot, but all my fish in NZ were landed on that set up without any problems, as was a 3 lb Clyde fish on Sunday



Alex

 

[Ythanjoe]

Thanks Alex, I like the furled leader for my small river set up , until now the loop to loop has had a weak point as I have stripped the line to core and whipped it back, it always seems to hinge at the junction between floppy loop and end of coated fly line, tried various products to stiffen the loop but a welded loop would sort this out . Should give a higher ride in choppy water too as the furled leader accepts a good dose of mucilin, will give this a go , if the loop is tight enough and doesn't hinge it should give better line control through to tippet, I,m a crap caster so short distance issues like this are a fact of my fishing life, especially in pocket water
Joe

[haresear]

You are welcome Joe. Let me know how you get on with it eh?

One thing to remember for anyone trying this, is to test run it on an old fly line (ideally one with the same coating as the one you intend to try for real).
I found Airflo coating quite difficult to work with, but got there in the end. Most lines have PVC coatings and these are easier to melt and weld than Airflo's polyurethane jobs.

Alex. 

[scotty9]

as was a 3 lb Clyde fish on Sunday

That's bigger than the browns I had at the weekend  :lol:

eh?

You've been in kiwi land too long!  :lol: