Fly Lines - Make A Welded Loop

[Ythanjoe]

How long have you used the no knot join before failure Alan? I had two fail on testing last year, but that was before I switched to zap a gap, no problems so far this season, I put a smear of epoxy on the leader exit from the fly line , and the small hole...
Joe

[scotty9]

Go for the best of both worlds, needle the leader through and tie a 3 turn nail knot. Small enough it never hangs in the guides, it slides out by shaking the line on the water and is probably never going to part.

[greenwell]

The half blood trimmed really snug is not bad at all. again, not as smooth as a needle knot



Alex

 

                   Using the above method I coat the knot with LOON U.V. KNOT STRENGTH. It is clear, and for a few seconds can be rolled to form a smooth taper over the end of the line and onto the first 2 or 3 mm of the butt piece. It is U.V. so applied in sunlight it cures in about 30 seconds. Permanent and I've never had one break or deteriorate. Particularly useful for clear intermediates with permanent butt piece and ring.

                Greenwell

                                             

[haresear]

                   Using the above method I coat the knot with LOON U.V. KNOT STRENGTH. It is clear, and for a few seconds can be rolled to form a smooth taper over the end of the line and onto the first 2 or 3 mm of the butt piece. It is U.V. so applied in sunlight it cures in about 30 seconds. Permanent and I've never had one break or deteriorate. Particularly useful for clear intermediates with permanent butt piece and ring.

                Greenwell

                                             

Thanks Greenwell, I was thinking about this today and the Loon stuff sprung to mind.

Go for the best of both worlds, needle the leader through and tie a 3 turn nail knot. Small enough it never hangs in the guides, it slides out by shaking the line on the water and is probably never going to part.

That's my usual method, with  dab of superglue for a belt and braces approach.

Alex

[haresear]

er..super glue isnt too good with water..zap a gap is waterproof super glue, and it glues waders, boots bits onto cars, my eyelid to my finger

Aye that, or more accurately Fishin' Glue is what I use.

The join was not popular with Saturday's whumpers :

Alex

[Malcolm]

This is the join I now use - it's super strong but creates a short stiffer section.

Take about 3 inches of hollow braided nylon and push the line in then whip using a fly bobbin.

[attachimg=1]

Take a par of pliers and squeeze on the end of the leader to create a series of ridges

[attachimg=2]

put the end of the leader in the other half of the hollow braided backing and whip on again using exactly the same technique as before.
Smear with Zap a Gap. Strictly this isn't necessary as the whipped joint will hold to the destruction  of the fly line if it's done properly. I've tried it.

[attachimg=3]

[Wildfisher]

Well, after a few months of testing I have decided these welded loops are not the best. Just like commercially made welded loops they crack  and hinge at the back too quickly. The speed of disintegration depends on the make of line  and the temperature / method  used to shrink the sleeve, but they all fall to bits sooner or later.

So, it's back to nail / needle knots  or the method I was using  30 years ago – that is -  strip back an inch or so of the line coating, fold back and whip with fine thread then  seal  with glue. That's still the best, neatest and most long lasting loop I have used.

[haresear]

The speed of disintegration depends on the make of line  and the temperature / method  used to shrink the sleeve

I've had no problems with cracking at all. You aren't leaving the shrink tube on are you Fred? It should be removed by snipping/tearing once the lin'e coating has welded.

Alex

[Wildfisher]

I remove the tube Alex. I think it's probably a temperature issue. A controlled heat gun would  be better, but that said I have had the same with commercially preformed loops  on lines. The whipped loop  is much smaller and neater, although more of a hassle to make. That said they seem to last a lot longer (for me anyway). I need to do some experimenting with  a flexible adhesive like silicon RTV which will make them more pliable. 

[haresear]

The whipped loop  is much smaller and neater, although more of a hassle to make. That said they seem to last a lot longer (for me anyway).

I wouldn't argue with that.
On the durability of the welded loops (factory or DIY), I have heard of them failing under strain and it is always in the back of my mind when I'm playing a particicularly good fish (a certain eleven pound brownie springs to mind) , but so far I've had no problems. 

Alex