The following was started as a potential Magazine article several years ago, it was to be accompanied by a series of step by step photos. I only got as far as the steaming and bending stage, it's a project I really should resurrect.
Haresears recent post started a bit of interest so I'm posting what I have so far.
MAKING A HARDWOOD NET
I like to travel light when fishing and have never liked the encumbrance of a bag or landing net, until that is a couple of years ago when I made my first hardwood net. These nets can be clipped to the D ring at the back of a waistcoat or jacket where they are out of the way but can be released with a quick tug.
Construction is fairly simple (If I can make one, anyone can.). They are very light and can be made in a variety of sizes to suit the quarry. My largest has a hoop 25in. x 22in. and is ideal for the West Coast Spate River I fish where it has comfortably landed salmon to 11 lbs.
The wood for my first nets was bought at B&Q/Homebase type outlets. I used two strips of Ramin wood from the Beadings and Mouldings rack in the store, 2.4m x 3/4in. x 3/16in. Ramin is a straight grained hardwood, which is easily steamed and bent to the required shape. You will also need a web clamp, two or three G clamps, a hacksaw blade, a drill bit various grades of sandpaper and varnish.
The first task is to make a form around which the strips of Ramin can be bent. I drew out the required shape, handle included on a piece of 1/2in. chipboard, 3/4in chipboard might be better but I find this much harder to cut accurately. Concentrate on getting one side right, and then make a tracing of this to give a symmetrical net. Now carefully cut out the form with a jigsaw, cut off the handle portion, which will be used as a template for the handle insert. Screw the form to a larger backing board. You will need a couple of spacers to lift and keep the form centred on the 3/4in strips. Next choose a piece of 3/4in. thick wood for the handle insert, use the handle template to draw the required shape and cut out with a jigsaw. Leave the end a couple of inches long so that it can be screwed to the backing board, ensure an even transition from handle to form.
The strips of wood forming the rim of the net now have to be steamed. To build a steamer you will need two lengths of 40mm plastic waste pipe, a coupling to join them together and two end caps. The tubes are joined and supported so that one end is about 12in. lower than the other to allow for drainage. The steam is supplied from a kettle (not electric). Depending on the type of kettle a short length of tubing can be used to link the kettle spout to the upper end cap or a hole can be cut in the sidewall of the tubing so that it can be placed directly onto the spout. The lower end cap has a small hole drilled near the lower edge for drainage. Place the strips of wood in the steamer from the lower end, fit the end cap and let the kettle boil for 30 - 40 minutes.
Now you need to work fast, an extra pair of hands is useful. Remove the strips from the steamer and starting opposite the handle, bend around the form, place the web clamp round the strips and tighten. You will probably need two or three G clamps in the handle area. The web clamp is ideal for the convex curves, the concave curves can be a bit trickier, needing the G-clamps. Leave the form and strips in a warm dry place for 24 hours before unclamping. The strips will spring back a little but the shape will still be obvious.
The strips must now be glued together. I use Evostick waterproof wood glue. Smear the glue onto the outside of the inner strip and also onto the edges of the handle insert. Now return to form and clamp as before. A layer of cling film over the form and backing board helps prevent the strips sticking to the form. Leave for 24 hours to ensure complete curing of the glue before removing clamps. Now cut off the excess wood from the handle.
The next step is to cut a groove for the mesh retaining cord. With the net lying on a flat surface I use a hacksaw blade fixed to a length of wood that centres it on the width of the hoop. After cutting the groove you need to determine the position of the holes, one for each loop on the outside of the mesh. Work out where the two holes closest to the handle should be and drill these out with a sharp drill bit 2-2.5mm. diameter. Run a string out through one hole, round the rim of the net and in the other hole. Tighten the string and mark where it enters the holes with a marker pen. Remove the string and attach to a level surface. Measure the length between the marks and divide by the number of loops in the net minus one to give the distance between each remaining hole to be drilled. Mark the intervals with a pen then run the string round the net rim again and mark off the hole positions with a pencil. This is much easier than trying to measure around the curve of the net. Drill out the remaining holes. Next screw and Araldite a screw eye into the end of the handle for attaching a safety cord. (If using the the magnetic type net clips it?s best to use a brass eye, available from yacht chandlers).
Now is time to practise your sanding skills. Shape and sand, shape and sand. Soon your net will start to look like a net. Start with a coarse grit paper and work down to a fine grit. When satisfied with the result you can varnish your net. I use several coats of thinned yacht varnish, sanding with a fine grit paper between coats. Pipe cleaners are useful for working the varnish into the holes in the frame.
Finally attach the mesh by pulling the mesh loops through the holes in the frame and passing a thin cord through each loop to hold them in place.
There are several types of clip available for attaching the net to a D ring on your jacket but I favour the magnetic type clip.
UPDATE
I?ve also managed to modify an old Pressure Cooker to provide the steam but these days you really can?t beat a steam wallpaper stripper for this job.
Photos: The net with the fish is Heresear's "salmon net" a NZ term?
The smaller of mine was the first effort, turned out a bit on the narrow side. It looked ok on paper as did the finished frame but when I attached the net it "shrank".
Harelug very nice indeed ?any idea just how much time and effort put into the project ?nothing better than hand crafted tools of the trade ?
Will there be a an advertisement soon on the forum ?saying handmade ? :) :)
Well described John. I see you even got the photies in OK :D
Guys, you'll notice that Harelug has attached his net release to the apex of the hoop, rather than to the end of the handle, which is more usual.
By putting it on the hoop, the mesh stays further from the ground and brambles etc. than the other method.
Also as the handle is hanging around the bottom of your back, it is easier to get at, rather than having to reach over your shoulder.
Alex
QuoteBy putting it on the hoop, the mesh stays further from the ground and brambles etc. than the other method.
Not far enough at the weekend, took me about 5 mins and a pair of sissors to release it from the brambles, that mystery river banks a real bastard.
Quoteany idea just how much time and effort put into the project
Don't think it took more than 15-30 mins a night over a week. Preparing the form probably took longest, maybe an hour.
nice one Lug...............looks like a good winter project. I believe Rabbitangler makes nets too, would be nice to get a fish wild article out of the woodworking craft skills of you guys
harelug
Great article. We have recently bought a 'bagpress' vacum forming kit for the dept - another techy - which is still in the box! http://www.bagpress.com/ Ever used one and if so do you think it would be easier than steaming? Last thing I used steam for was 6mm Ash to build a toboggan as a project at Moray House about :shock: years ago. Needed to keep each strip in steam for about 4 hours I seem to remember.
Alan
Breac
I'm no expert on woods, I used Ramin because it was readily available in the correct dimensions. I've not experienced any problems with durability. I build up a good coat of varnish and the net hangs at my back out of harms way.
I have considered bamboo nets, wasn't sure how to shape them, bamboo doesn't respond well after short term steaming however having researched cane rod making I should have realised it does respond to more intense heating. In rod making you're mainly straightening bamboo strips, would the same heating render the entire culm so flexible.
I'd assumed the "bamboo" nets I'd seen, popular in Denmark were made with the same stuff as Bamboo furniture which appears more reed like than bamboo.
Alan
I've never seen bagpress before, having had a brief look at it I can't see how it's going to help bend approx. 2.4 meter straps around a net form. Perhaps if my understanding is right, once you have them the approx shape it could compress them on to the form. This I've found is the trickiest part of net making. Sounds like you might just have a solution.
John
John,
Like Col, I'm just going to have to give it a go. Bit more study of your text required before I start though! Thanks for posting.
Norm
My first interest in net making came from an article in International Flyfisher, a glossy mag of the late 70's early 80's.
Didn't get round to building my own until being inspired by posts on the American based Flyfish@ site, their archives can be accessed here:
http://ffarchives.jdunns.com
Try searching the late 90's
Thanks for sharing your experiences harelug - I've been thinking about this for a while and this might just kickstart me ... where do you source the "net" and how is this attached to frame you make?
Chris
Lots of woods can be bent, ash, elm, cherry, my latest is made from Purpleheart & Ash looks lovely. theres a crowd in the states use all sorts of exotic woods for frames & handles, but charge appropriate prices.
The hardest bit, for those non techies (yeah, me too), is the former, its so much easier if you have a decent bandsaw & drum sander to gice it a good finish. Also an endless supply of sash cramps is handy if you use more than one laminate in the bow.
The bags are a pain, either you buy replacement bags from someone like snowbee or make your own. Redport nets used to do nets in small quantities, I bought about a dozen 12-15 years ago but I've used them up long since & they don't seem to do small quantities. I made Broontroots young lad a wee net and used the mesh you get for inside jackets which I dyeds, I'm thinking of using the same stuff for my new net, I'll let you know if it works.
I've just ordered two replacement nets (large and medium) from cabela's: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0011260313770a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=replacement+nets&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=replacement+nets&noImage=0 (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0011260313770a&type=product&cmCat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=replacement+nets&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=replacement+nets&noImage=0)
When the nets arrive (surface mail :roll:) I'll get started, much to consider before then ...
All the best
Chris
Chris
Missed your post on sourcing nets but looks like you've solved that one yourself. I hoped my original post made net attachment clear, maybe not. I make a groove around the outer surface of the hoop to accommodate a retaining cord , something like heavy duty braided line backing. The appropriate number of holes are drilled through the hoop to accommodate the loops round the perimeter of your net. Pass the retaining cord through each hole through the net loop, back through the same hole and pull the net loop into the hole, continue round net. Hope this makes sense. Possibly an easier way and definitely better if you ever have to replace the mesh and can't find a bag with the same number of loops, forget cutting a groove, spiral the retaining cord round the hoop passing it through the perimeter mesh of the net on each spiral. Perhaps a couple of drilled holes as anchor points for retaining cord wouldn't go amiss.
if you need any other help feel free to ask, I'll help if I can.
John
Cheers John, when the nets arrive I'll prob bombard you with queries :)
Well, the nets have arrived from cabela's :). The medium is tiny and I can't imagine I'll ever use it. The circumference of the large net is 46" which feels about right. The net is not as deep as I would have liked but I'll crack on anyway.
The main form and handle template are more or less there.
I'm going to try and avoid pre-bending the wood by using many thin laminations ... not entirely sure if it will work, but I'll give it a go :wink:
John, where did you get these things from:
http://www.orvis.co.uk/store/product_choice.asp?pf_id=318T&dir_id=6337&group_id=6367&cat_id=7609&subcat_id=7602&bhcp=1 (http://www.orvis.co.uk/store/product_choice.asp?pf_id=318T&dir_id=6337&group_id=6367&cat_id=7609&subcat_id=7602&bhcp=1)
The orvis ones are a bit pricey!
cheers
Chris
You could have saved some postage costs
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/pod/standard-pod-wrapped.jsp?id=0001353&navCount=1&parentId=cat20554&masterpathid=&navAction=push&cmCat=MainCatcat20431-cat20554&parentType=index&indexId=cat20554&rid=
Selection of catches here.
Alan
QuoteJohn, where did you get these things from:
http://www.orvis.co.uk/store/product_choice.asp?pf_id=318T&dir_id=6337&group_id=6367&cat_id=7609&subcat_id=7602&bhcp=1
The orvis ones are a bit pricey!
Chris
I went down the Orvis road, that was over 10 years ago and all that was available at the time in magnetic retainers. I'm sure there are a couple of cheaper options available these days. Alex (Haresear) uses a similar one which I think was a bit cheaper. There are also other non magnetic options available. The magnetic ones aren't always as easy to connect as the blurb makes out, I frequently have to reach both hands behind my neck/shoulders and connect them by hand.
Or go to your local joinery manufacturer or saw mill they'll usualy cut down anything you want to any size quite reasonably.
QuoteOr go to your local joinery manufacturer or saw mill they'll usualy cut down anything you want to any size quite reasonably.
Black-don
Exactly what I did with my first net but I had problems. Perhaps my choice of woods wasn't good but the sawmill wasn't really geared up for a fine cut down to 3/16-1/4 in. I'm not talking about a large scale rough sawmill, they were a small business catering for the joinery trade but they ripped through the wood which caused it to fracture while bending. I didn't have the same problem using dressed strips from the mouldings section of B&Q or Homebase.
John
How about a japanese style 'Tenkara' net ? I made mine of sycamore, arms steamed, scarf jointed and epoxied - then dowel pins added for extra security. Total cost, GBP 2/50 for the aquarists net.
Nigel
very nice Nigel :D