The Wild Fishing Forum

Do many of you long time loch fisherman use tapered leaders or straight mono right through? I was suprised when I first got here to see how many guys just used a single diameter mono from flyline to fly. Ive always used tapered and have always preferred to tie my own. Just curious.

I sometimes  use them, sometimes not. When loch style fishing in a big wave there does not seem to be any point in it. Use them most of the  time on the river or when fishing dries on the loch.

I was getting some casting tips from Magnus (Angus) at the weekend and he reckons it's also worth using  braid  between you line and leader for  best possible turn over.

Ive got some good leader recipes. Just need a tape measure and a selection of mono. If anyone is interested Ill post them.

You guys using them with loops or a nail knotted butt to attach your leader?

Please do post these recipes. Make a new thread and it will be a great reference. I just use loops, but wonder is they don't just help to ruin the effect?

Ive been tying up leaders for the last 3 nights Bandy. Just by the computer and getting to some typing for a break. Are you using a loop on your flyline? If so just loop the tapered leader and interconnect them.

If you tie up some of your own just nail knot a section of .020 or .021 to your flyline and leave about 2 feet. When you want to change leaders just blood knot the leader to your butt(3 turn).

Most of my fishing is dry fly or nymph on rivers.
I always use tapered leaders for this, nail knotted to the line.
To start off with I just water-knot my tippet to the leader. As the tippets get replaced and the leader shortens and gets thicker at the fly end, I eventually add a connecting length of say, 6lb to enable me to tie fresh tippets to that.I use the same method when loch fishing, whether from bank or boat.
If I did more boat fishing though, I might go over to just a level butt section joined on to the finer stuff at the business end, as turnover is not a problem casting downwind.

Having read Alan's post above, I'll just add this...
I have used the metal ring method and generally found it fine. Only had one problem when I was fishing a very long tippet below the ring and tried to net a biggish fish. This entailed winding the ring into the rod rings. When the fish took off on a run, the ring clattered through the rings. Not nice.
I suppose it depends what length of tippet you are using with the metal ring set-up. I would have been using about 7 or 8 feet, I suppose. This was in retrospect, a mistake. If I had stuck with about 3 or 4 feet, I would have had no problem

Allan  Ive tried that Watershed on my loops. Seems to work good and really seals the loop.

:oops:  :oops:  :oops:  :oops:

enough said !!

All the best

Richy

Good point Alan L., about the angle of attack.

On that note, when fishing in a boat, and especially when in a boat by myself, I usually cast across the wind. Like you say, the surface feeding fish will be looking upwind, so if you retrieve across the wind you will be showing the fly to more fish.

Years ago, one of the most frequent complaints  from my loch fishing pals was about getting 'fankled'.  Since they began using tapered leaders I hardly ever hear that anymore.  They used to think a tapered leader was unneccesary for fishing downwind, forgetting that a good backcast is as important as the forward cast.  If the leader doesn't turn over on the backcast, it probably won't on the forward throw.

The tapered leader tranfers the energy of the fly line through to its end.  That's why the fly line is tapered in the first place. The leader just continues that taper.

I just use heavy butt nylon leaders with a gradual taper, Selectacast mostly.  They work fine even into a head wind.   :)

Quote from: Bob WyattThey used to think a tapered leader was unneccesary for fishing downwind, forgetting that a good backcast is as important as the forward cast.  If the leader doesn't turn over on the backcast, it probably won't on the forward throw.

That's what I thought too..................... :oops:   what you say there though makes good sense.

QuoteI've been using Maxima this season, but the droppers keep burling round the cast  I attach the dropper to the ring, would attaching the dropper to the cast via a water knot stop this?

Uncleboo,

Although I have used leader rings, I have only done so for dries and nymphs. For wets, I use the waterknot to form the dropper. One of the main reasons I prefer to use fluoro for this, is the inherent stiffness of the material, which reduces the tendency of the dropper to tangle.
I know a lot of people have experienced problems with some brands of fluoro, which has probably put them off. In my opinion, the fluoro equivalant of Maxima is Fulling Mill's stuff. It is relatively thick and tough as our work canteen's scones :cry:

QuoteI also hear it's got a half life of a sqillion years.

Told you it was like one of  our canteen's scones :lol: !

Seriously, yes it seems nigh indesructible. I always carry scissors and always cut it my tangled leaders into lengths of two or three inches, which I must admit, I do discard. :oops:
I used to do a lot of coarse fishing and have had to untangle birds from discarded/lost line in the past.  :cry:

uncle,

For bog-standard work, I like Fulling Mill. If you feel you need to go finer, Airflo's Sight Free G3 works for me. It is the only Airflo product I would give house room to. I would equate Fulling Mill stuff to Maxima and G3 to a "double strength" nylon.

Knots? I am a simple soul and use a 5 turn half blood. If I am using 5lb upwards I would probably make that a 5 turn tucked HB.
I really must learn the uni-knot though as everyone says it works OK with Frog Hair, which I think behaves well apart from its aversion to my HB knots and may be useful to me in its finer diameters for midsummer river work.
For droppers, a 2 or 3 turn water knot. I used to use a 1 turn water knot and never had it fail (admittedly I was catching bandies or is it bandys) , but got heckled by a mate, so bowed to peer pressure.

Alex,

The uni is a much more reliable knot than the HB, IMO, and easier to tie.

I agree about the two turn water knot though.  It's all I ever use.  I only use two turns on the Uni too.  I think the symetrical figure-eight knot formed by the two turns is what makes it so good.

Not a big fan of Fluoro though.  Just can't see any advantage to it. I'm convinced that trout can see it as well as normal mono  or copoly of the same diameter. It sinks, I guess, if that's important.

QuoteNot a big fan of Fluoro though. Just can't see any advantage to it. I'm convinced that trout can see it as well as normal mono or copoly of the same diameter.

Not being a trout Bob, I couldn't comment on the visibility :) .
Seriously, I don't buy that refractive index crap. I use the stuff because firstly it is stiff and secondly it sinks pretty well.

Conversely, I have used it as a stiff extension to my tapered leader butt when fishing dries. I just grease it up and (being comprised of a stiffer substance) it gives a good turnover into the wind for a smaller diameter than nylon. Just add your usual tippet.

:D God points on fluoro's stiffness, hare.  Normal mono soaks up water and goes quite limp.

A point worth noting on flurocarbon is that it aint always what it says it is. Several brands are only florocarbon coated. The acid test is to touch a flame to it, both nylon and mono will ignite but remove the flame and flurocarbon extinguishes, nylon continues to burn. I'm with Alex on its stiffness/anti tangle properties and like to think it gets my chez nymphs where I want them quickly.

Quotelike to think it gets my chez nymphs where I want them quickly

Are those french nymphs then John? :)

I suspected my spelling was a bit awry there, just as well you didn't see my first attempt, still can't get my head round the right spelling. Keep me off the whisky in future.

Just czech a map John :)

Keep you off the whisky? For my next trick.....