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Buying a Salmon Rod

Started by nant_fisher, March 21, 2008, 11:12:31 AM

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haresear

QuoteOne other thing is that there are different casting styles. The Scandinavians use fast actioned generally shorter rods for use with weight forward and shooting head lines (Alex, correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the Guideline fall into this category?). British speycasters will often favour a longer and much slower actioned rod and some of the rods on older blanks by Hardy and Bruce and Walker are still sought after.

Mu guideline is the LPXE model. I wouldn't say it is outrageously fast actioned, but it certainly isn't a slow, traditional type of blank. I'm told it is very, very similar to the Loomis GLX.

I think there is a place for shorter rods in salmon fishing. I used to fish the upper Ayr and took a 15 footer along one day. I found that I was unable to cast in some areas due to tree cover (my casting is crap, admittedly). I found that my 9 foot trout roder was easier to use in that situation.   

Alex
Protect the edge.

greenwell

Get casting lessons before you even look at the rods in the shops,etc. A good instructor will have several set-ups and will advise you as to what is best for you and the rivers you intend to fish. He will take into account all of the factors relating to your intended use of the rod. Armed with that knowledge you will be in a much better position to know what you should be looking for when it comes to buying.

                           Greenwell

haresear

QuoteGet casting lessons before you even look at the rods in the shops,etc. A good instructor will have several set-ups and will advise you as to what is best for you and the rivers you intend to fish. He will take into account all of the factors relating to your intended use of the rod. Armed with that knowledge you will be in a much better position to know what you should be looking for when it comes to buying.

Wise words Greenwell.

Alex
Protect the edge.

Allan Crawford

As said above lessons with a casting instructor is a great way to go if you can afford it and will probably be money well spent, considering the cost of the average days salmon fishing. I've now had 3 casting lessons and they have all helped.

If your lucky enough to be in a club with salmon fishing then you will not only get good advice but the chance to try different rods and especially different spey lines. I'm in the Inverness club and had no idea when I started but took there advice and its still my main rod 7 or 8 years later. 

If you just want to get out and give it ago the Oracle 14' or 15' is a great place to start, considering the cost of them. I had a wee go with a 14' 3 piece 10 weight and it was a great rod, good action, probably just a bit heavier than the more expensive rods but just as good as rods costing 3 or 4 times as much or more. As already mentioned good casters are hitting the backing with them. I could be tempted to go buy a 14' 4piece Oracle, a handy size for the boot of the car and a good size for most rivers.

Smaller rods definiately have there place, I used my 13' a lot last year, but then again I could have got away with a single handed trout rod instead, and sometimes did chose the trout rod, as already mentioned long rods and trees can be a nusiance. The point I'm trying to make is that a lot of salmon fishing requires heavy flies in higher water conditions, so don't be afraid to go for a big rod, cause you can always put it to the side and go back to your trout rods that you already have.

Tigtlines

IrishFloatTube

The rod does match the angler  ... a bit.
It also matches the size of fish angled for .... a bit.

However more than anything else a salmon fly rod really has to match the character of the water fished.

So ......
If you want to dibble droppers get longer rods (light is ok)
If your pools to be fished have a spinal flow of faster water which requires line mending, unmending, lifting over the fast bit, or other manipulation there is no substitute for length.

If sunk line is involved think of heavier and slightly longer.

If line stripping is regular due to still water, slow water, dry fly, or top dropper type wake fly fishing then look in particular at shorter handles and lighter rods.

If the fast water is usually on the far side or a max casting range, if the pools are evenly graduated flow, no real mending line manipulation required, reduce the rod size and length.

If you fish March esp, and April to a certain extent,  consider heavier line weight sizes, or a second heavyweight rod for windy days.

Does your local or preferred fishery have HIGH BANKS BEHIND? If so, lengthen the rod.

These would just be opening issues to consider IMHO. All are based on you and your preferences, and therefore specific to you.

Your preferred flysize and retrieve speeds also contribute far far more to the decision than is generally reckoned.

I would also try to "walk the bank" with a productive local flyfisher and chat the matter through as several pools are covered, and different problems of casting and presentation turn up and get dealt with.

haresear

An excellent and concise summary Irish Float Tube.

Alex
Protect the edge.

Harpo

Hi Robbie,

Not sure of you've bought your rod yet but I just noticed in Trout & Salmon (March 2008) that there is an offer of ?100.00 for :-

13 or 15 foot Wychwood Trueflex Salmon rod
Okuma Sierra Reel
Backing
Sharpes Floating Line
Braided loops

It seems to be via Glasgow Angling Centre 0870 920 1120 quote Trout & Salmon Offer

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