Salmon Fishing On The North Esk
- Details
- Published on Tuesday, 19 October 2010 16:26
- Written by Paul A. Kay
We arrived at The Burn House on Sunday afternoon after a flight through clear blue skies from Dublin and the first glance at the River North Esk from the road bridge filled us with delight, as the water level was perfect.
Two feet above summer average and slightly coloured, it ran through the rock and woodlands and flowed away into the valley below.
The drive up to The Burn House itself is full of wonderful sights, especially on such a bright and sunny day as you pass through old forests, newly manicured lawns with colourful, landscaped gardens and then the house comes into view. It’s quite imposing the first time you see it as it stands perfect as it did when it was first built, solid, clean-cut stone, sentinel-like with the pillars at the reception hall lending it a very grand feel. 
We’ve been coming here to fish since 1988, some productive weeks, some not so but always a pleasure to fish the river some 300 metres away in the woods. You can hear the roar of the falls through the woods from in front of the house. We moved into the fisherman’s apartment in the eaves of the house and immediately set up the rods, trout fly rod, salmon fly rod and a spinning rod to tackle the ever-changing conditions of the North Esk.
Our initial foray down to the river boosted our morale even further, as there were salmon everywhere, some sea trout and you could hear the splashes of leaping salmon and see fish moving from pool to pool so we were sure we were in for a good week’s fishing.
After a few drinks in the nearby town of Edzell, we went to bed reasonably early to catch first light and hopefully a fish or two.
My daily journal reads as follows:
Monday
04.00 Headache from the drinks the night before but full of excitement. Hardly went dark, maybe for an hour or so. An early morning chorus from woodland birds over a brief breakfast and red skies lit the halls and galleries of the old house.
Fished till 11.00. Dave lost a fish and had a couple follow the lure. Very positive!
19.15 to the river and fished in the pouring rain until 22.40. The river is rising. Fish everywhere, it’s a little frustrating. A small bat kept chasing my fly as I cast.
Tuesday
Rained all night and awakened by my horrible little alarm at 03.00, which was turned off and reset for 06.00. After cereal and toast, we set off back down to the river and fished The Loups Pools, Kit Bog and Sandbed Pool. Sea trout abound as the river now flows 3 feet above average summer level. Dark water and swirling currents give slight glimpses of silver shapes passing through the deep channels and cauldrons.
Fished until 12.00 and the rising river looks perfect. A steak pie and a couple of cold beers in Fettercairn, which is about 4 or 5 miles away. We are back to the river at 17.00 and fished until dusk (about 22.15), and no interest from any fish. Tomorrow will bring better conditions, as the level of water in the river will fall. 
Wednesday
Had 2 Sea Trout and a nice sized Brown Trout. Kingfishers flying like Tornados through the Glen, flashes of colours unusual in nature. I had another Brown Trout, possibly the smallest in the river system. After the 04.00 start to the day with brilliant red sky, I’m feeling a bit tired as there’s some bird, loudly feeding her chicks in one of the chimney pots above my room. Horrid piping noise!
Fished until 13.00 with no more interest from the fish but some from a Red Squirrel that seemed quite friendly.
I’ve seen some very big fish in the pools below the falls. Back fishing at 17.30 and I lost a fish! It snapped at my lure (a black and gold Toby) but didn’t hook. River still falling, as is the rain again. 21.40 and time to call it a day as we could still pop down to the pub in Edzell village for a couple.
Thursday
Bad night’s sleep again as that bird (an Oystercatcher I believe) is again doing whatever it was doing the other night. I don’t like this bird and I will try and throw things at it later. Looking forward to seeing my wife, Alison who is arriving tomorrow. 
08.00 start, and must remember to close the window this evening. After hot coffee and cereal that resembles Pot Pourri, back to the North Esk. My legs and back are stiff with all the exercise over the past few days and sitting in funny positions on the rocks by the water. Hope we have a fish today. Fished solidly until 15.00. Really hot today so need to rethink my ‘Country Gent’ look as the waxed cotton isn’t helping my cooling system and sitting by Sandbed Pool, I can imagine being in the Med somewhere although there are probably fewer midges in the Med. Budweiser and Spam for lunch so yes, we are running out of supplies and need to restock.
At last! 21.40 and Dave landed a fresh run, sea-liced fish of about 7 pounds and returned it carefully to the strong currents to carry on with its journey. Not as many fish showing now so I’ll take a walk to the lie I KNOW holds fish.
It doesn’t hold fish after all. Took some snaps of the countryside and the house in between kicking myself for not having the camera with me for the first fish we had.
Need to have a wash.
Friday
Managed to rise at the unearthly hour of 03.00. Trembling with excitement as we make our way once more down to the river. A beautiful morning light is filtering through the trees in the woods.
Water levels have dropped so much, you could step over the river in places. We had a couple of nice Brown Trout, about a pound and a half each. More photos and I need to recharge my batteries (camera ones too). A ‘continental’ breakfast of eggs, Spam, beans and Spam.
My beautiful wife Alison (she’ll read this too) arrives and we lunch in one of the local pubs where the food is fantastic. Later, we fish on until the twilight and I landed a fish of about 6-7 pounds, once again on a Toby (not sure what colour now) from the Coffin Pool.
There are still many fish running upstream and as the week draws to a close, we begin to dismantle rods not used, after, of course, one or two drinks.
Saturday
My fishing partner and friend of many years leaves this morning with a 6-hour drive south, ahead of him. More fishing in the afternoon but with the level so low and only a few fish showing, I think I’ll call it a day.
Alison is with me by the river and the birds are singing, the river’s flowing and the air is cooling as the afternoon wears on. 
Sunday
The Burn House Open Day
Alison plays wonderful piano in the music room (on a slightly out-of-tune overstrung) and sends echoes down the corridors, resounding from the high ceilings and walls, charming the guests and staff gathered to listen and watch.
I run the Tombola stand.
The day went very well and raised money for Unicef.
Out for a bite in Fettercairn in the warm evening and on our return to the house, all is quiet and we stand outside the main entrance for the last time this year. The woods are quiet too now except for a distant call or two and the river’s roar can still be heard through the trees.
Monday
We flew back to Dublin at lunchtime. I have had such a wonderful week!
The Burn House is a place I won’t forget, I will book my week year after year whether or not we catch fish. It’s not just about the fishing but there’s something special about this place, magical and delightful and the only way that I could convey this to the reader is by saying visit the place, feel the warmth and peace there. In a gazebo in the grounds there’s a little sign, which reads:
“Enjoy the view of the house, the sky, the birds, the trees, the peace and the quiet. Stop for a while and listen to the burn as it flows past and listen to your self. Enjoy this wonderful place and its special aura - its Burn Balm”.
I couldn’t have put it better myself!
Paul Kay is a keen photographer, travel writer, sailor, diver and rock climber. Most importantly of all Paul fishes for Salmon and Trout in Scotland, England and Ireland where he lives with his wife Alison and their son Charlie.