Visiting Orkney
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- Published on Tuesday, 02 October 2007 11:20
- Written by Robert Rae
Just six miles over the Pentland Firth from mainland Scotland lies Orkney. A wild trout anglers paradise? True.
But what if you just like to do a bit of trout fishing, or it’s a family holiday where you have to consider your wife/partner/children as well? Are you doomed? If you or your family need guaranteed sunshine, or fast food outlets, nightclubs (with the exception of Kirkwall) and other various manufactured entertainments, then, perhaps, you are. Should this not apply, then read on. I will not mention fishing. Promise.
Your holiday starts with the ferry (unless you choose to fly, of course). Depending on the ferry route that you take, you may see the Old Man of Hoy, a magnificent sea stack to the west of Hoy (literally translated as “High Island”). Indeed, Orkney is relatively low lying, with the exception of Hoy.
Take a camera, and binoculars. Be aware that the weather here, even in “summer”, can be inclement, and it is often windy, so take suitable clothing. Better to have it and not need it, rather than need it and not have it.
Once on-board, don’t stay inside. On the open decks, you have a real chance of spotting whales, dolphins, porpoises, basking sharks and a myriad of seabirds, as well as the magnificent cliff scenery.
The port of Stromess is nice little town, with winding streets that are “interesting” to drive along. It has a good selection of shops, pubs, a swimming pool and museum. It was also one of the staging posts for the Hudsons Bay Company. It also has some interesting street names……
OK. You’re there at your chosen accommodation. More than likely, your hosts will be a mine of information. But to get you started…………
If you’re into watching wildlife, then you are spoiled for choice. So I’ll mention only one location. The “Bird City” of Marwick Head lies in the West Mainland, and is a brisk stroll uphill. It must be good, because Bill Oddie’s been there!
Also located here is the monument to Lord Kitchener, whose ship, the HMS Hampshire, was struck by a mine in 1916.
Here you can see Puffins (Tammie Norrie), Guillemots, Black Guillemots, Razorbills, Shags, Cormorants, Fulmars, Ravens, Skuas (Bonxies), Manx Shearwater at night, and, err, rabbits. You can see grey and common seals here too, but they are a common sight all around the islands.
Orkney has more Neolithic monuments then anywhere in Europe. About three to the square mile, and has been featured frequently on “Time Team” on television.
Amongst the most prominent include the Ring of Brodgar”. A 3000 year old stone circle (predating Stonehenge). Some will remember Billy Connelly doing, well, what Billy Connelly does, around this. The advantage of this is, for the angler, that the car park is adjacent to the Harray Loch, so you can do a couple of hours casting whilst the clan go back in time. Carry a few Peach or Orange Muddlers. Sorry, I said I wouldn’t mention fishing.
Further down the road are the Stones of Stenness, another remnant of a stone circle.
The advantage to the angler with this one is that the parking area lies next to the Loch of Stenness. Which usually has a resident seal or two.
This loch is connected to Scapa Flow at the Brig O’ Waithe. Have a few casts, but be warned, this is a difficult water as it is brackish. And it’s slippery underfoot. Put something gaudy on and cast into shallow water. You can catch brownies, sea trout, and I’ve even caught pollack, flounder, crab and bass. Sorry, I mentioned fishing again.
Nearby is Maeshowe, a Neolithic tomb, which was raided by the Vikings about a thousand years ago, who left what are considered to be the best Runic (graffiti) inscriptions in Europe. You have to pay for a tour to Maeshowe, it’s maintained by Historic Scotland, but it’s worth it. It’s not for the claustrophobic; you enter via a low tunnel.
Also nearby is Skara Brae. A Stone Age village uncovered by a freak wave in the 1800’s. Incredibly preserved. There is a fee, but, again, it’s worth it. The angler can also have a go at a bit of sea fishing at Skaill, where you’ll find an uncrowded beach. Expect flatties, unless you go on the rocks to the right and left, where you may expect a variety of fish. If you do decide to fish from the rocks, BE CAREFUL. Oops, I’ve mentioned fishing again. Sorry.
Now we’ll venture over to the east of the mainland.
Here you will find several islands, linked by causeways, known as the Churchill Barriers. These were constructed during WW2, after the sinking of HMS Royal Oak by the German U-boat, U49 in 1939. You can “Try A Dive” here if you want to.
The barriers were built using the labour of Italian prisoners of war, who also constructed a chapel for themselves from a Nissan hut, and using basic materials.
Now I must mention fishing again, I’m sorry. You can walk out and clamber down to the barriers, numbers 1 and 2 being favourite, and catch many species of fish, including mackerel in season. I really do apologise for mentioning fishing again…..
On Burray, there is a fossil centre, with a museum and café. Further south, on South Ronaldsay, you will find the “Tomb of the Eagles”, a prehistoric tomb. (Admission fee applies), and a Marine Life Aquarium (Admission fee applies).
Going back north and east, you will find the Gloup, a collapsed sea cave. Boat trips are available to go and see this, and even to go into it, weather and tide permitting. Seals abound here, not too good for fis……., ok, alright, no, I’ll not go there.
Now we’ll head back to Kirkwall, the Island Capital. It has the magnificent St. Magus Cathedral, dating from the 1100’s.
It is also home to numerous restaurants, pubs, shops, a cinema and sports centre, library, chip shops, museums, etc. And a hospital, should you need it. The ferries for the northern isles of Orkney sail from here, and you can book your trip from their offices. Highly recommended.
If the sun does shine, there are numerous almost deserted beaches at your disposal. If it gets a “bit breezy”, try a bit of kite flying!
It rarely becomes dark here in mid-summer; conversely, it rarely gets light in winter, though the Northern Lights are frequent visitor.
I can only scratch the surface of what these islands have to offer, but, suffice to say, there is more to do than fishing. If you are an angler who wishes to indulge in your hobby during a family holiday, then this just may be the place for you. Who knows, you may even get the family hooked on your addiction!
Accommodation is widely available.
If it’s a family caravan you’d prefer, the one at Bryameadow. The caravan is on a farm, the farmer himself being a keen trout and sea angler. click here for website
Hotel accommodation is plentiful, if you want to be near the fishing, then look at the ones in Harray, Dounby, Stenness or Boardhouse. More details can be found at www.visitorkney.com
Robert Rae , originally from Dumfries, has been game and sea angling for thirty-ish years, mostly in Orkney, and the Northern and Western highlands. He thinks that, with practice, he may get to be good at it. He also dabbles in fly dressing, given the time.