Adventure in Sutherland
- Details
- Published on Monday, 26 June 2006 17:24
- Written by Bruce Sandison
Michael Wigan is one of Britain’s most experienced and knowledgeable anglers. Not only because of his undoubted skill with rod and line, but also because of his hands-on, practical approach to fishery management. Nowhere is this more evident than at Loch Ascaig, and on the River Friadh which is a tributary of the famous River Helmsdale in Sutherland.
These waters lie on Wigan’s Borrobol Estate in Strath Helmsdale, and, over the years, he has made an enormous effort to improve the fishing on both river and loch. I first fished Loch Ascaig a dozen years ago and although there were a few larger fish, the majority of trout averaged 6oz / 8oz in weight, albeit, bright little fish, always ready and anxious to provide you with supper.
Since then, the average weight of trout has improved and fish of between 1lb and 2lb in weight are now encountered. The pH level of the water has been increased by the application of lime, whilst strategically placed straw bales restrained algal growth. Wild swans also graze the weeds and control their growth and Loch Ascaig is now considered to be one of the best trout lochs in Sutherland.
Loch Ascaig may be fished from either the boat or from the shore. Both methods are equally productive, but the loch is one mile long by up to three hundred yards wide and a boat makes it easier to reach the best fishing areas. The rocky south west shoreline is a good place to begin, where the inlet burn feeds Ascaig. Another productive area is near the stream by the site of an ancient burial chamber. Offer the trout my trusted friends, Loch Ordie, Soldier Palmer and Silver Butcher.
The River Friadh always held salmon, but generally only towards the end of the season. However, a three-year improvement plan has created 11 new pools on the lower river, from Borrobol Bridge, upstream for 2miles to Fearnich Footbridge. Above the footbridge, the river is a sinuous stream, with peaty holes and sluggish flats, but nevertheless fishable in high water conditions.
Salmon and sea trout now run the river from June onwards and the best approach is to begin at Borrobol Bridge. Walk upstream on the south bank, fishing as you go, then cross the Fearnich Bridge and return home fishing the north bank. The upper river is tackled from the first quarry on the right of the hill track. Park, then follow the fence down to the river.
The upper river lies amidst wonderful scenery where you will be assured of solitude and silence, other than the cry of curlew, high-piping greenshank and the plaintive call of golden plover. Given good water levels, there is always the chance of a fish. From September onwards, however, when the stalking is in progress, stay by the river to avoid disturbing the deer.
For the best chance of sport on the Friadh, keep well back from the river bank. Crouch down, below the skyline. Stalk the fish. Lengthen your line, from one point, rather than marching down the bank to cover lies. Adapt the size of your fly to suit the prevailing water conditions. Try Willie Gunn, Garry Dog, Goat’s Toe, Green Highlander, Hairy Mary.
Apart from the fishing outlined above the estate can also arrange fishing on adjacent waters, including Loch Rimsdale, part of the Badanloch waters where large baskets of trout are the rule rather than the exception. Rimsdale is best fished from a boat, but bank fishing is also productive, particularly at the south end of the loch; reached via the Loch Choire Estate road at the east end of Loch Badanloch.
Approximately twenty minutes drive north from Borrobol, lie the Strath Halladale Flow Country trout lochs; Sletill, Leir, Talaheel, Ealach Mor, na Cloiche, Skyline, Caol and Garhh, to the east of the A897 Helmsdale/Melvich road, and The Cross Lochs, Crocach and Loch nam Breac to the west. Access to these waters is by forestry tracks and permission to fish may be obtained from the Forsinard Hotel (01641 571221). Hotel guests have priority, otherwise lochs may be available.
Commercial forestry has greatly altered the character of the area, but these lochs are still exciting to fish. Sletill is my favourite. The loch is circular in shape and covers an area of some sixty acres. Boat fishing is most comfortable, but bank fishing can be just as productive, particularly from the promontory on the north shore.
I have had superb sport here when bank fishing, cutting the line across the wind. Trout lunged from the crests of the waves and within an hour I had breakfast, and lunch. The fish are of high quality, pink-fleshed, deep bodied, and average about l4oz in weight. Leir, Sletill’s near-neighbour, has similar quality trout but of slightly lesser weight.
North again, up Strath Halladale, are a further series of excellent trout lochs; east of the road, Akran, na Seilge, and na Caorach, to the west, Loch na h-Eaglaise Beag and Loch na h-Eaglaise Mor. All contain good stocks of trout which vary in size from 8oz to fish of over 2lb in weight. Loch na h-Eaglaise Beag and Loch na Seilge have the largest fish. Na h-Eaglaise Beag is easily fished from the bank, na Seilge is best attacked from the boat.
The Borrobol Estate covers some 22,000 acres of mountain and moorland and offers magnificent hill walking for non-fishing companions. There is outstanding wildlife, including red deer, wild cat, otter, golden eagle, buzzard, hen harrier, and a good chance of seeing both black-throated and red-throated diver. Plant life is just as unique, with two insectivorous species, butterwort and sundew, as well as tormentil, milkwort, hog asphodel, yellow flag, marsh marigold, St John’s wort, forget-me-not and wood sorrel.
Borrobal Estate has self-catering cottages which are let with the fishing.
For details, contact Mike Wigan, Borrobol Estate, Kinbrace, Sutherland KW11 6UB, tel: 01431 831264.
Bruce Sandison is a writer and journalist and author of nine books, including the definite anglers' guide, 'The Rivers and Lochs of Scotland' which is being revised and updated prior to republishing.
He contributed to 'Trout & Salmon' for 25 years and was angling correspondent for 'The Scotsman' for 20 years. Sandison writes for the magazine 'Fly Fishing and Fly Tying' and provides a weekly angling column in the 'Aberdeen Press & Journal'.
His work, on angling, Scottish history and environmental subjects, has appeared in most UK national papers, including 'The Sunday Times', 'The Telegraph', 'The Daily Mail', 'The Herald', 'Private Eye', 'The Field' and in a number of USA publications.
Sandison has worked extensively on BBC Radio. His series 'Tales of the Loch' ran for 5 years on Radio Scotland and was also broadcast on BBC Radio 4 and on BBC World Service. His series, 'The Sporting Gentleman's Gentleman' and his programme 'The River of a Thousand Tears', about Strathnaver, established his reputation as a broadcaster.
Sandison has had extensive coverage on television. He wrote and presented two series for the BBC TV Landward programme and has given a number of interviews over the years on factory-forestry, peat extraction, wild fish conservation and fish farming.
Sandison is founding chairman of 'The Salmon Farm Protest Group', an organisation that campaigns for the removal of fish farms from Scottish coastal and freshwater lochs where disease and pollution from these farms is driving wild salmonid populations to extinction.
Bruce Sandison won 'Feature Writer of the Year' in the Highlands and Islands Press Awards in 2000 and in 2002, and was highly commended in 2005. Bruce lives near Tongue in Sutherland with his wife Ann.